Is that a sort of Playa cammie?

On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 2:21 PM, hal muskat <[email protected]>
wrote:

> beautiful, very creative. Do you have dust color?
>
>
> On May 31, 2014, at 10:55 AM, Dan March <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I just wanted to show off my new skirt, door and matching windows!
>
> A few people have asked if we could make skirts and doors/windows for
> their yurts and yes - our only question now is, "How many?"  And - yes, if
> you want to DIY, we can help there too.
>
> The design is clever (I think - but hey... I'm the designer...) in that it
> solves engineering problems in more or less artistic ways.
>
> The skirt smooths out installation, spreads the hold-down load, carries
> the caravan theme and personalizes the big silver box.  You throw it over
> the completed, taped up yurt, align the corners and hook on cargo straps
> connected to stakes.  Go around the yurt carefully tensioning the straps so
> they're all equal and all corners line up.  Don't be silly and tension them
> so they over-stress a wall.  The mechanical advantage means you can put a
> lot of force on a strap - but don't forget you're just dealing with foam
> boards!  It's very nice because it makes it easy to get all the tensions
> equal
>
> I like the door design a lot because it basically clamps on a door frame
> inside and out, gently squeezing the foam board and providing a firmly
> anchored, sealable opening.  The hinges are attached to both door and frame
> with machine screws threaded to tee-nuts embedded in the back side of the
> frame and door.  This means it can go through an indefinite number of
> assembly/dis-assembly cycles.  A variety of sealing systems are/can be
> used.  I've put in a soft compressible edge to let the edge of the foam on
> the door mate to the foam panel surrounding the opening.  I've also put in
> magnetic holders.
>
> Windows follow the same principal of clamping a frame.  Glazing can be
> fixed or openable.
>
> The Funky Sultan look shown is just one notion.  Anything you can cut out
> of plywood and varnish, stain, paint, upholster... will work.  You can use
> thinnish plywood to save on shipping weight and size.  I used 5/16".  I
> placed 1/4-20 x 2.5" carriage bolts 4-6" apart around the periphery.  I
> drilled through the foam to insure against damage to the foam by just
> pushing our pounding.  I made a ton of somewhat flexible 2" diameter fender
> washer type things to spread out the load on the window frame and clamped
> down with a wing nut and regular steel washer.  The inside of the door
> frame can also be clamped down with the same bolts and wing nuts, but since
> it's got all kinds of loads on it, it's got a full plywood frame on the
> inside too.  I made it an inch smaller all the way around as part of the
> sealing system.  Finally, I added a 1x4 on the bottom inside for the full
> width of the panel to beef up the threshold since that seems to be what
> gets broken first and most.  Again, it has the carriage bolts and wing nuts.
>
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> <20140526_085716.jpeg><20140524_183606.jpg><20140531_100619.jpeg>
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