I haven't been following this thread, so if I'm duplicating efforts here, 
sorry. 

I could be wrong, and Kendall or someone else may correct me, but I think 
Walter Lawson would put some really heavy oil (10W-30?) on the valves to check 
if they were leaking. If it played better, you most likely needed the valves 
worked on. 

My $.02.



--- On Thu, 2/24/11, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:

From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Improvements to a Paxman 25A
To: [email protected]
Date: Thursday, February 24, 2011, 1:50 PM

Here's the deal with my Paxman. While it's not very good in the high range, 
 it kills and filets just about anything I've ever played in the low range. 
I  have tried about 100 different horns trying to find something that I 
could use  for low horn playing without a lot of additional effort and no horn 
has really  come close to this one (for me). I can play extremely loud (with 
a decent sound)  down there, but I can also play very VERY soft. For 
example, the Tchaik 5 2nd  horn solo is a lot easier because it's almost 
effortless to play soft down there  and I can incorporate plenty of dynamic 
contrast. 
 
I've played a few other Paxman 25s (As, Ls, Ms, and different years) and  
this one has beat them all. It does okay in the high range, but not as well 
as  I'd like it to, so that's why I'd like to push it a little further.
 
The sound in all ranges is absolutely wonderful, though. 
 
I'm pretty sure the mouthpiece isn't the problem (as I usually use a  
specific cup or range of cups for each horn I play on to prevent that), but it  
could be as Bob Osmun suggested, a compression issue. That would cost me 
about  $1200 (versus about half that for a leadpipe). But then again, if you 
consider  the fact that a lot of people might spend $500 on a screw bell 
conversion, $600  for a new leadpipe, or even $1500 for a new bell or other 
improvements, it seems  reasonable. Plenty of people have taken their Conn 8Ds 
and 
have spent an extra  thousand or two improving them.
 
It's possible another horn would be great, but I highly doubt I'll need to  
spend more than $1500 to improve this horn, and it's far from crappy to 
begin  with. It's all in all a very nice horn that has served its purpose 
rather  well.
 
-William
 
 
In a message dated 2/24/2011 1:40:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[email protected] writes:



Having done just about every  modification you could think of, including a 
few "terminal" experiments  (oops), to hundreds if not thousands of horns 
over the last many years, Here's  what I'd do.
As has been wisely said, first make sure  the horn is mechanically sound.  
If you have leaky valves and leaky  tuning slides, nothing else is going to 
help much.
Second, as has also been mentioned, make sure the mouthpiece fits the 
leadpipe  correctly.  If it doesn't, you will have to work harder for pitch,  
response, range and sound.  Don't worry, everything else will still be  ok.  Ha 
Ha!
Well, step 2 is the cheapest and will  help even if your horn is a bit 
leaky.  Step 1 could cost quite a bit of  money, which means maybe step 3 
actually isn't such a bad  idea.
Step 3 I think was suggested tongue in cheek, but  if you're thinking about 
laying out a bunch of money for a valve rebuild and  then a bunch more 
money to experiment with leadpipes, mouthpieces, freezing,  thawing, magic 
incantations, changing the air column in the horn to pure  nitrogen etc., all 
of 
course with no guarantee of success, well, why not just  buy a new/different 
horn that you know you like because you tried it  out?  International Horn 
Workshop coming up soon.  Great place to  try lots of horns and sell your 
old crappy one!  If nothing appeals, then  you may find out that you still 
like your present horn after all.

-  Steve Mumford
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