My camera rotates. I'd like to try to remove the rotation. I've got a couple systems setup to help me retrieve the rotation data from frame to frame. I am wondering how to apply that data pre-stitching, rather than my current method of post-stitching. I noticed when I move the center of the stitched image in the GL Preview that it modifies all of the yaw/pitch/roll components for each image. Is there an easy way to apply a, for example, yaw of 4 degrees before creating the panorama? I can't very well go in and align each one by hand.
On Sunday, July 22, 2012 11:17:06 AM UTC-5, Caleb wrote: > > So many good pieces of info from everybody. Thanks. > > I'm uploading a new video that uses some of the input you've provided. The > no-optimize helped a lot with the walking blending issue. I even generate > the blend masks on the first input file and use it on all subsequent files. > Presumably that saves a bit of time. > > The new video will be live at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2nkUhQ-RvY > > Parallax is not expected to present too much of a problem as the majority > of the frames will be with the control points at infinity. For the cases > where they're not I'll decide how to handle them at that time. > > Jan, you mentioned not adjusting the exposure so as to prevent flicker. > That makes sense (and I do see some flicker across the whole scene in this > new video), however, how am I supposed to fix the over/under exposed images > when they're no longer pointing at the bright sun/dark shadows? This is > definitely not going to be a static platform and I won't have the luxury of > making sure the rig never rotates. > > I won't be able to configure the template beforehand. Each run will be > unique and will have to be tailored to that run. > > I 100% agree with Jan on the control-point selection GUI improvements. I'm > not in the ideal use case and I really feel the impact of an inflexible > control point selection process. I can even see the case for allowing > control point selection to be done with two overlapping images that you > "pin" a control point to. Allow me to skew and rotate the images and pan > them around to get a feature lined up as best I can simply for control > point selection. It wouldn't be locked to that pin and, in fact, the pin > shouldn't be visible once established in this skew mode. My problem is that > the only overlap I have is in the far reaches of the images where they're > most distorted. Picking out features in two images that aren't rotated > similarly and are up to 12 inches apart on my screen makes it pretty > difficult to determine if that bright blob is the same rock in both images. > > > On Saturday, July 21, 2012 6:41:05 PM UTC-5, Jan Martin wrote: >> >> I got this result last year: >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6DMSjtrTP0 >> >> You need to get the seams right first. >> Be aware that a template will work for a single distance only. >> So you need to know what kind of situation you will shoot later, and make >> a template for that exact situation. >> E.g. ALL control points at 10 meters from the camera. >> Yours are at 5 meters on the sand, and at the horizon in the opposite >> direction. >> Also there are absolutely no cps on all the the seams of sky and asphalt. >> That will never work. >> >> From my experience using a tripod and setting up in a small clearing in >> the woods with 10 meter diameter to high trees really works well. >> You need lots of features at ALL the seams. >> Then place the cps manually because you do not have the overlap nor the >> resolution for any automatic cp finder to ever work. >> >> Like Bruno suggested use "enblend --no-optimize" to avoid flickering of >> the seams. >> >> Also you need decent images for making the template. Shoot at around noon >> for that. >> Not very late in the afternoon with the sun close to the horizon, >> screwing up the images. >> >> What I did when trying your images was to close hugin, make a copy of >> 2-2.png, change brightness and saturation in Gimp until I could actually >> see something, then use that image for manual cps. Then close hugin, rename >> images back. >> Open hugin and optimize for exposure with the original image. >> >> This is the pano I got: >> http://bit.ly/NH6Fdb >> >> Temp image for control points only: >> http://bit.ly/QbYjNL >> >> For shooting later: >> Avoid shooting at dusk and dawn, the cameras you use are known to be bad >> with low-light situations. >> Also do not optimize for exposure at all or the resulting video will >> flicker. Like yours does. >> >> While we are at it: >> It would be nice to have a way to adjust brightness and saturation for >> the images at the hugin control points tab. >> Just to help place cps, nothing else. >> >> And It would be even better to have a way to rotate the images on the >> control points tab. >> Maybe even have an extra button to take over the rotation from the >> preview window. >> >> Any developer reading this? >> >> Jan >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Hugin and other free panoramic software" group. A list of frequently asked questions is available at: http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hugin-ptx
