Arle

please post some sort of tutorial (even with some video if possible) about
shimming and all sorts of adjustments of string pressure!

how often is it necessary to re-rosin the wheel?

On Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 5:25 PM, Arle <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> Hi Barbara,
>
> If at all possible, get an experienced player to show you how to apply
> rosin very soon. Scraping the wheel should be a *last* resort when all
> else fails, not a routine maintenance task. Over the long run it can
> create real problems with your instrument. The only time you should
> normally scrape the wheel is if it is out of round. If you really need
> to remove rosin that badly, then you can do it much less invasively
> with a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a rag. Scraping is a
> destructive process because a good wheel relies on building up a
> coating of rosin over time and scraping it destroys that and takes off
> some wood.
>
> If you're getting ridges of rosin, you're definitely applying it
> wrong. (This is something of a hobby horse of mine on the list, so
> bear with me.) If you apply it correctly, it is almost impossible to
> apply “too much” rosin. Most people who get too much rosin have
> misapplied it (and this pertains, in my experience, to some very
> experienced players!).
>
> First, make sure your rosin block is perfectly flat and smooth with no
> sharp corners or edges. If it is jagged or broken, get a new one: it's
> not worth using a block that isn't right (although I have seen many
> players with ridiculous little bits of rosin that look like they could
> be used as implements of torture.
>
> Then take the block and, while turning the wheel slowly, gently move
> it back and forth perpendicular to the wheel motion keeping the
> surface of the rosin parallel to the face of the wheel. *Don't* hold
> it on one place as you turn it as that will result in uneven
> application with broken ridges (which is what “too much rosin” really
> is in most cases).
>
> If you end up with uneven application (it happens to all of us
> sometimes), use a cloth and turn the wheel while pressing down on the
> surface fairly firmly. That will resolve all but the most stubborn of
> problems. You should feel the surface get warm from the friction and
> you'll probably find that it's left a glassy looking spot of fused
> rosin on the cloth.
>
> If it helps, I can make a video about rosining wheels later on and
> post it to YouTube. Since this seems to be a consistent issue for many
> list members, it might be worth it. Maybe I should do a tutorial on
> shimming and cottoning as well.
>
> -Arle
>
> > Have I told you what I use to scrape my wheel? I have an Allway mini
> > glass scraper (like this one:
> http://www.castlewholesalers.com/ALLWAY-GSM-Mini-Glass-Scraper-w-1-Bl...
> > . I believe Craig got it at a home show). I drag the single-edged
> > razor blade across a steel and I get a nice little curled edge, very
> > delicate. When it gets worn, I toss the blade and put in a fresh one.
> > This is particularly useful to me, as I do not have the hang of proper
> > rosining (being a beginner with a shiny, fresh disk of rosin) and I
> > have to shave off the high points, even after running the wheel
> > against a cloth. It is also quite lightweight and I can hold it
> > against a cottoned chanterelle to get the proper angle. Don't worry, I
> > am very, very slow, careful and conservative, mainly because the whole
> > process scares me. I tried sharpening a plane blade (spent hours with
> > the whet stone) and dragging it across a steel, and tried using broken
> > glass. I'm just not good enough and those were too gross taking too
> > much wood and sometimes leaving little shallow grooves as I was truing
> > my new wheel. The single-edged razor blade is just right. Craig and I
> > had the same idea at the same time and he found me this tiny plastic
> > scraper instead of the larger, heavier metal one I was using.
>  >
>

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