Not claiming to be an expert or to even be doing things anywhere close to right (that is why I am so interested in this thread, I'm learning too), but for the few wheels I have made, I mount the hub in a rough-cut baltic birch blank, then use a model airplane propeller balancer to adjust flutter or run-out using thin aluminum foil shims between the flange and the wheel (how perpendicular the faces of the wheel are to the shaft, not how true the diameter is.)
Then once it is true, I mount a shaft in the metal lathe chuck, and with a specially ground tool in the toolpost, I true the rim and take it to final diameter, then lightly bevel the edges. Once done like this, there is little except a cursory truing that I have to do in the instrument.
But I could do it the more traditional way, and would do so if the wheel diameter was set at 7 inch, as my atlas 6 inch lathe won't throw a 7 inch wheel (but my neighbor's 8 inch Atlas will - might have to borrow his for a few minutes)
But truing in place is always the final step, no matter how you get the wheel made.
Chris
> Would you make the wheel on a metal lathe? I would think you could
> use a metal lathe for some of the smaller-diameter parts and make
> the wheel on a wood lathe. In the absense of a wood lathe, you
> could even cut the rough shape of the wheel on a band saw with some
> further shaping by mounting it on a drill press. The final truing,
> of course, would be in-place with a scraper.
>
> Stan
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 7, 2011 at 9:57 AM, Kazimierz Verkmastare
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Since the most common hobby metal lathe is an Altas 6 inch or one
>> of the clones, there is compelling reason to consider parts that
>> can be made on this lathe, if there is no acoustic or performance
>> reason not to. Remember, this is not a thread to see what kind
>> of a compromise gurdy we can build, it is to see if a truly
>> reasonable instrument can be built, at or below the cost of a
>> professionally built instrument, but an average craftsman.
>>
>>
> I have no specific knowledge of anything that would make a 6 inch
> wheel better or worse than a 7, so I will ask the builders and
> players if they can give a reason to stay with 7 inch or can agree
> on the 6 inch (152 mm) instead.
>
>>
> Chris
>
>>
>> Just a thought , 7" is pretty much standard for lute backed
>> instruments but it's worth considering a smaller wheel - say 6"
>> which is more the norm for Guitar bodied gurdies. The smaller
>> wheel makes no difference to articulation of trompette ( imho ) .
>> The slower rim speed helps to minimise the unpleasant resonances
>> that can occur and the overall volume is slightly less. A 6"
>> wheel may also be a more practical size for those with only
>> access to a small lathe. I use an average of 16mm for rim width
>> and 18mm rim to bridge.Regards Neil
>> On 7 Nov 2011, at 07:24, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Today's Topic Summary
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> - ***Builder HG*** Current 'Builder HG' specifications [7
>> Updates] - Brocker translation is now available online [2
>> Updates] - *** Builder HG*** specification responses [1 Update]
>>>
>>>
>>> ***Builder HG*** Current 'Builder HG' specifications
>>>
>>>
>>> Kazimierz Verkmastare <[email protected]> Nov 06 09:21AM -0600
>>>
>>>
>> So I am going to start this new thread, called 'current builder
>> HG specifications. Please do not respond to this thread -
>> responses should be to the thread 'specification responses'
>> previously
>>
>>> ...more
>>>
>>>
>>> Arle Lommel <[email protected]> Nov 06 12:45PM -0900
>>>
>>>
>> I would suggest making all measurements in metric, and setting
>> the default wheel size at 178 mm, for the reasons listed below:
>>
>> Alden's size (7" = 177.8 mm) is normal for western instruments,
>> which
>>
>>> ...more
>>>
>>>
>>> Alden and Cali <[email protected]> Nov 06 02:20PM -0800
>>>
>>>
>> I agree - specs should be metric whenever possible.
>>
>> We end up using metric, fractional inches, and decimal inches in
>> the shop, because our various tooling demands different things.
>> I'd be
>>
>>> ...more
>>>
>>>
>>> Scott Gayman <[email protected]> Nov 06 04:32PM -0800
>>>
>>>
>> Hello Chris,
>>
>> If you are basing it around a non-trompette sinphone then it
>> could have a smaller wheel. The standard concensus regarding
>> wheel diameter is that larger wheels make for better control
>>
>>> ...more
>>>
>>>
>>> Kazimierz Verkmastare <[email protected]> Nov 06 06:59PM -0600
>>>
>>>
>> I thought we were going for an instrument with 2 chanterelle, a
>> petit bourdon, a gros bourdon, and a chein. This would give the
>> opportunity to design around and learn how to set up pretty much
>> every
>>
>>> ...more
>>>
>>>
>>> Kazimierz Verkmastare <[email protected]> Nov 06 07:02PM -0600
>>>
>>>
>> I agree, metric (I will convert to US as necessary to use my
>> tools) should be the standard.
>>
>> Now I need to go out and get a couple decent metric straightedges
>> (and metric pencil lead - 0.7mm for my
>>
>>> ...more
>>>
>>>
>>> Kazimierz Verkmastare <[email protected]> Nov 06 07:07PM -0600
>>>
>>>
>> OK, to go with the wheel diameter (enough for coup control, not
>> so much as to eliminate the possibility of some of the faster
>> central European based music) what about rim width. Is a perimeter
>>
>>> ...more
>>>
>>>
>>> Brocker translation is now available online
>>>
>>>
>>> timw <[email protected]> Nov 06 06:01AM -0800
>>>
>>>
>> Thank you both!
>>
>> This is really appreciated, and I know it took a lot of work for
>> everyone involved. Thanks for adding this information to the
>> group. Tim
>>
>>> ...more
>>>
>>>
>>> Ulrich Joosten <[email protected]> Nov 06 08:01PM +0100
>>>
>>>
>> Dear all involved people,
>>
>> thank you for this great treat. It was long overdue that this
>> standard work is now available in English language. Really big
>> kudos for this big effort to all involved
>>
>>> ...more
>>>
>>>
>>> ***Builder HG*** specification responses
>>>
>>>
>>> Kazimierz Verkmastare <[email protected]> Nov 06 09:21AM -0600
>>>
>>>
>> In order to keep track of everything we are discussing, I propose
>> we keep 3 threads alive on the builder topic.
>>
>> The first set of threads should have ***Builder HG***
>> Specifications for proposed
>>
>>> ...more
>>>
>>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the
>> Google Group hurdygurdy. You can post via email.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an empty message. For more
>> options, visit this group.
>>
>>
>>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the
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>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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>> this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hurdygurdy The
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>>>
>>>
>> Best regards
>>
>>
>> Neil Brook
>>
>>
>
>
>> --
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> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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>>
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-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hurdygurdy" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hurdygurdy The rules of posting, courtesy, and other list information may be found at http://hurdygurdy.com/mailinglist/index.htm. To reduce spam, posts from new subscribers are held pending approval by the webmaster. |
- Re: [HG-new] Abridged summary of hurdygurdy@googlegr... Neil Brook
- [HG-new] ***Builder HG*** discussion on wheel s... Kazimierz Verkmastare
- Re: [HG-new] ***Builder HG*** discussion on... Stan Leake
- Re: [HG-new] ***Builder HG*** discussio... Kazimierz Verkmastare
- [HG-new] Re: ***Builder HG*** discu... gurdymaker
- Re: [HG-new] ***Builder HG*** discussio... Alden F M Hackmann
- Re: [HG-new] ***Builder HG*** discussion on... Steven Tucker
- [HG-new] ***Builder HG*** discussion on wheel s... Arle Lommel
- Re: [HG-new] ***Builder HG*** discussion on... Alden F M Hackmann
- [HG-new] Baroque hurdy gurdy course Sabina Allen-Kormylo
