In my experience, a higher tension string, like thomastik spirocore viola 3rd for low G has allowed me to use less string pressure, without losing much punch. On the other hand, I remember I read somewhere in the old mailing list, the importance of having an even pressure of the string on the wheel, and how often the upper octave sounds scratchy / out of tune due to the string pressing more on the bridge side; thus the need for filing or sanding down a bit the nut. I have been experimenting with that lately with good results. On 28 nov, 21:00, Billy Horne <[email protected]> wrote: > Hi, > Very interesting,what about the use of strings that have different > "tensions" ie. low ,medium, high. How does this effect /affect the > situation. > Billy Horne > > On 26 November 2011 15:58, JULIE BARKER <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > Firstly, thank you for the tip about smoothing the rosin with a blowtorch, > > I will get myself a torch and give it a try, then I'll celebrate with a > > well-earned creme brulee. > > I think that the differences of opinion re amount of rosin could be down > > to the differences in wheel construction. When I played Chris Eaton gurdies > > with laminated wheels I needed to use a lot more rosin than I need on my > > Boudet, where the rim of the wheel is cut from solid wood; however, I do > > agree that some of us, myself included, do allow our rosin to deteriorate > > beyond what is good for the sound; not too much of a problem when an edgy > > rock and roll sound is required but less than ideal when you want a sweet > > controlable sound. > > > Philip G Martin aka Drohne > >www.drohne.co.uk > > > --- On *Fri, 25/11/11, Arle Lommel <[email protected]>* wrote: > > > From: Arle Lommel <[email protected]> > > Subject: Re: [HG-new] Rosin-pressure balance > > To: [email protected] > > Date: Friday, 25 November, 2011, 20:24 > > > This topic always gets me on my soapbox, but I'd like to point out one > > critical aspect of rosining that I've seen forgotten by many good players: > > You need a very smooth surface on your rosin block. Most problems with “too > > much rosin” arise because the rosin has built up unevenly on the surface of > > the wheel and made ridges that break and leave jagged chunks on the > > surface. The result is the dreaded scratchy too-much-rosin sound. By > > contrast, if you use a block with a smooth surface and apply it by moving > > the block back and forth across the face of the wheel while turning it, you > > can apply tremendous amounts of rosin because these ridges do not build up > > and you won't end up with this problem. > > > I've seen far too many players—including good ones—applying rosin with > > broken little chunks that they stick on the wheel and leave in one place. > > As a result I personally think that inadequate rosin is likely to be a > > bigger problem than most people realize: they are so scared of putting too > > much on that they end up using too little. The amounts of rosin I put on my > > wheel would startle many players, but I *never* have problems with too much > > because of the way I apply it. > > > Leading back to the original question, I think "less rosin-more pressure" > > vs. "more pressure-less rosin" is a false dichotomy if you know how to > > apply the rosin. You shouldn't ever need more pressure to accommodate a > > lack of rosin. Similarly, if your pressure is high enough that a good coat > > of rosin leads to too much “bite” from the wheel and a bad tone, you have > > too much pressure, period. All the rosin is doing is revealing that the > > pressure was too high. If the pressure is right, you should be able to add > > as much rosin as you want—provided you do it properly—and not have > > problems. If you keep the pressure low because your rosining tends to cause > > problems, it's probably the way the rosin is applied. > > > In other words, my opinion is that you set the pressure right and > > properly-applied rosin won't impact it. I know others on the list whom I > > respect greatly may disagree with my opinion, so take what I write as just > > an expression of my experience and opinion. Even if you disagree with me > > about whether too much rosin can be a problem, I do think it's worth > > looking at your rosining technique if you are having trouble with too much > > rosin: applying rosin evenly and neatly can only help. > > > Incidentally, if you have a rosin cake that has been good but gets chipped > > or broken, an easy fix is to take a kitchen torch (like you use to > > caramelize the top of creme brûlée) and heat the rosin. It will melt the > > surface and smooth out the chipped/broken area. You don't want it so hot > > that it burns the rosin, but rather just enough to liquify it and allow it > > to flow into a smooth surface, so go slowly. I've saved a number of cakes > > of rosin this way. > > > -Arle > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > > Groups "hurdygurdy" group. > > To post to this group, send email to > > [email protected]<http://uk.mc864.mail.yahoo.com/mc/[email protected]> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > [email protected]<http://uk.mc864.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=unsubscribe@googlegroups...> > > For more options, visit this group at > >http://groups.google.com/group/hurdygurdy > > > The rules of posting, courtesy, and other list information may be found at > >http://hurdygurdy.com/mailinglist/index.htm. To reduce spam, posts from > > new subscribers are held pending approval by the webmaster. > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > > Groups "hurdygurdy" group. > > To post to this group, send email to [email protected] > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > [email protected] > > For more options, visit this group at > >http://groups.google.com/group/hurdygurdy > > > The rules of posting, courtesy, and other list information may be found at > >http://hurdygurdy.com/mailinglist/index.htm. To reduce spam, posts from > > new subscribers are held pending approval by the webmaster.
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