Re: [HG-new] ***Builder HG*** Specifications for proposed 'builder gurdy'

[Kazimierz Verkmastare]

A couple of other questions.  I can see the 'lifted' position mechanism on the bourdon bridge screws, and from the rear on the chein-side drone bridge, but are you going to use just a simple standard peg on the chein or something more complicated, and I know it just isn't drawn here (no internal keybox detail is) but what kind of lifters are you going to use for the chanters?   The reason I am asking is that my current design is based on a medieval instrument - I want the sound to be equal to the best such an instrument could provide (in other words, right after truing the wheel, re-cottoning and rosining).  I know that the average sound of a late medieval gurdy was not optimal due to materials limitations, but I am also certain that there were moments when the setup came together and the sound would have been something we could recognize and respect.  Technology has allowed us in many way not to improve the best sound our instruments can make, but to make sure they are far more consistent at making those sounds. (A Gurdy consistent?  Funny, right?  Kinda like an experiment I once did - making a medieval Scotch from a recipe found in an old monastery manuscript.  I used to think that Scotch was a non-evolved spirit, after that experiment, done under the full supervision of an experienced professional brewer, I now know that Scotch has evolved probably more than any other whiskey.)   So I want to use modern technology to make a more stable instrument but use medieval theory and practice to build an instrument with the sonic profile and playability of an ancient instrument.  I have been drawing plans based on a not-so-recognized gurdy from a Bosch painting, but since we have no instruments that I know of from that time or earlier, I was thinking of just cutting 'bumps' into the front of the keybox wall and using them as lifter pads, or cutting the upper profile of the bridge so as to have some higher pads just beside the notches for the strings.     I probably won't be building directly from your plans, but the measurements and angles all seem quite right for what I am building, and I may fine tune my drawings with some of your design, if I have your permission.   Thanks   Chris > I'm using metal for the treaded bridges. Similar to the one you can > see on Mel and Ann's site  > http://www.hurdygurdycrafters.com/index.asp?page=parts6.2 > They sound fine. I like the adjustability of them as with the > chanter bridge. I make up an adjustable height chanter bridge by > using double bass adjustment screws. Just cut the bridge legs and > drill holes to take the Bass screws. On my Jiri gurdy I even made > adjustable dog bridges. I have an ebony slider which can screw in > and out pushing the dog further away from the wheel if necessary. > Makes for easy setup and fine tuning of all the string to wheel > pressures. > I haven't made two of the exact same gurdies and used wood > (standard) versus metal (adjustable) bridges. So I can't really > make a definitive comment on the deadening effect on sound using > the metal. I like the sound I'm getting from my  Jiri gurdy though. > > > I just use the standard brace setup. Easy to get the shaft lined up > at drilling stage if the bushings are at the end block and at > "brace two" (on my plan). It is critical to get the shaft at the > correct angle and hence the wheel at the correct height above the > sound board. > > > I take your point about the pegbox attachment. I'll beef up the > buttresses 'boat tails' and they get routed into slots in the peg > head end block, as well as the peg head. I'll draw this in clearly. > Thanks for the feed back > Cheers > Graeme > > On 18 December 2011 17:58, Kazimierz Verkmastare <k...@nogy.net> > wrote: > >> I like what I see - if the measurements are kept consistent with >> a bit of aesthetic engineering this could be built to look like >> any number of period pieces. >> >> > I need to ask, are you using hardwood threaded bridges for the > bourdons on the lower side of the gurdy, or metal.  Are they > grooved all around in two places so as to give a on-wheel and off- > wheel position for each?  I have seen a wedge-adjusted bridge > setup, but have not had my hands on a gurdy with threaded bridges > in this position, and I would be interested in the effects that > something as dense and large as metal threaded rods in this > position would have on sound. > >> > I am assuming that there will be a standard pattern of 3 top > structural braces in the region of the shaft, the front (tail) and > rear (head) of the 3 holding the bushings and the middle drilled > for clearance.  One of the questions I was going to ask while > developing a builder plan is why (aside from the obvious problems > of precision alignment) the current standard seems to be to not > bush the middle of the shaft.  Is it just difficulty in alignment > and operation when material moves, or is there another reason. > >> > The only stress concern I am seeing is the very narrow area of > attachment between the head of the body and the peghead.  I know > the peghead is mostly supported by attachment to the keybox, but > the who 'boattail' on the head end of the soundbox seems to end up > a bit too thin.  Again, I am no expert, but seems to me that the > peghead should be really firmly attached to the body of the > instrument and possibly more lightly to the keybox, I am not sure > why that seems to make sense to me and would really appreciate the > real practical reasoning involving peghead attachment and soundbox > float so I can be more educated. > >> > More questions and comments as I study further > > Chris >> >> >> Hi all - Just thought I'd say a happy Christmas to you all. I >> have been diddling with the drawing pen again and have added >> draft plans for a Henri III Renaissance Hurdy Gurdy to by web >> site. I would be interested in what people thought of this gurdy >> setup. Any comments/suggestions welcomed. I'm going to make this >> one out of Huon pine. Should be able to start building it in the >> new year. So Season greetings and download a "plan" pressy from >> 'Antiquated Strings' >> >> http://sites.google.com/site/mccormackgraeme/antiquatedstrings >> >> Cheers >> Graeme McCormack >> >> -- >> Graeme Mccormack >> 1056 Halls Track Road >> Pelverata, TAS 7150 >> ph: 0362663598, MOB: 0429663598 >> email: mccormack.gra...@gmail.com >> work email: g.h.mccorm...@utas.edu.au >> web:www.mccormack.graeme.googlepages.com/antiquatedstrings > > >> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > Groups "hurdygurdy" group. > To post to this group, send email to hurdygurdy@googlegroups.com To > unsubscribe from this group, send email to > hurdygurdy+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit > this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hurdygurdy   The rules > of posting, courtesy, and other list information may be found at > http://hurdygurdy.com/mailinglist/index.htm.  To reduce spam, posts > from new subscribers are held pending approval by the webmaster. > > > -- > Graeme Mccormack > 1056 Halls Track Road > Pelverata, TAS 7150 > ph: 0362663598, MOB: 0429663598 > email: mccormack.gra...@gmail.com > work email: g.h.mccorm...@utas.edu.au > web:www.mccormack.graeme.googlepages.com/antiquatedstrings -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hurdygurdy" group. To post to this group, send email to hurdygurdy@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to hurdygurdy+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hurdygurdy   The rules of posting, courtesy, and other list information may be found at http://hurdygurdy.com/mailinglist/index.htm. To reduce spam, posts from new subscribers are held pending approval by the webmaster.