Sounds like you covered the subject. I think I can handle it, but will likely do it when she is hauled out. I read on another post that seacocks on the bilge, cockpit drains, and exhaust thru-hulls are not necessary for coastal cruising.
I should have listed that my 1987 is a wheel and Universal M18. Thank you Don and James. --- In [email protected], Don Brooks <brooksd...@...> wrote: > >     I have a 86 model with wheel steering, which is probably the same as > your 87. Older models used a different system for cockpit drains. >     On my boat, the hoses were engine exhaust (black) hose. Both had > weather cracks that had opened up to about ¼â. They did not leak when > the boat was static, but did leak when underway. In the port locker, remove > both inboard access panels and the aft panel. In the lazarette, remove the > bottom access panel. In the quarter berth, remove the upper trim molding on > both sides, and then remove the aft panel. Go buy 3 ½ feet of 1 ½ââ > white sanitation hose and 2 each 1 ½ââ male threaded hose barbs (marine > style). Also, have 2 large pipe wrenches on hand. The thruhulls are > slightly below waterline. Each threads into a 60 degree elbow to a household > type PVC barb fitting which is larger than 1 ½ââ. These need to be > changed to marine type. The other end on the cockpit floor is marine > type. It is a little unnerving working so close to the waterline. The > starboard PVC barb came off easily. The port barb would not > budge, so I had to remove the elbow from the thruhull with the pipe > wrench.. If my helper looked over my shoulder, water came in the > thruhull. When he sat on the bow pulpit, the water was at the top on the > thruhull but did not spill in the boat. Cut the sanitation hose in to 2 > equal pieces. You may have to trim off a little. Fit the bottom end onto > the barb and measure before you cut. The bend is pretty radical and will > deceive you on length. Be sure to check clearance on the rudder cable and > wheel bell crank â" itâs going to be pretty tight. I had to twist the > hose and then clamp it to clear on the starboard side. >     The original setup was 1 5/8in exhaust hose that will fit a > household 1 1/2 in barb. At the cockpit floor, the oversize hose was just > stuck on the marine barb. I don't think that exhaust hose can take the > sharp bend that is required and therefore cracked. Sanitation hose is much > easier to bend, although, you might have to warm it with hot water or a heat > gun to make it easier to work with.  By taking out the panels I mentioned, > you can lay in the port locker and put your upper body into the lazerette. > On starboard, lay in the quarter-birth with your head to the rear.  Trying > to work thru the lazarette hatch will give you a massive headache. >    Cockpit drain shut offs are a good idea for off shore yachts with > small cockpits, but not really necessary for a coastal cruiser/racer like the > C27. You could put screens on the floor drains, but will slow the flow if > you really needed it to drain quickly.     >   Let me know if I can be of any assistance. >    Don, #6293, 86 model, TR, Wheel, M-18, Niceville, FL > > > > > ________________________________ > From: zyachtsman <zyachts...@...> > To: [email protected] > Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 8:03:30 PM > Subject: [IC27A] Cockpit drains > > > > > > Has anyone had experience replacing their cockpit drain hoses? From the view > of standing on my head and looking into the stern locker, they go from the > cockpit connections to thru-hulls in the lower hull. There are no seacocks on > either. They are definetly not above the water line. I am looking for info on > the size of the hose, which I would like to have with me before I start > removing the old hose. Any tips on making a difficult job easier? Should > there be drain covers on these in the cockpit? > > Zyachtsman > 1987 Catalina 27 TR > #6382 >
