I agree Judy the two-part is suppose to last longer, only my yard doesn't let anyone but their guys spray, so with that I was limited to rolling.
I must say that I'm very pleased with the outcome! Prep work is the most important (aka time consuming) step in the whole job. fill, fair, sand, fill, fair, sand... My objective wasn't to make my boat more beautiful, it was to stop leaks, the one part handled both though, well I'm hoping it is going to be drier <fingers crossed>. Now I have a fresh coat of paint in case I need to make any repairs in the future too! The antiskid was fun to apply, and I developed a very unorthodoxed approach to that using a plastic cup, plastic spoon and a 4 inch roller. Basically cup was used to measure the correct amount of paint to additive, the spoon was used to stir and spoon out paint onto deck then roller was used to spread it out. Then was developed after the additive kept sinking to the bottom of the roller pan and only paint was getting on the brush. --- On Thu, 6/11/09, Judith Blumhorst, DC <[email protected]> wrote: From: Judith Blumhorst, DC <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [IC27A] Finishing filled holes? To: [email protected] Date: Thursday, June 11, 2009, 3:30 PM Gelcoat is a quick way to cosmetically touch up holes from old fasteners and anyone can do it with a little practice. And if you don't like the way it turned out the first try, you can drill out the gelcoat and try again. Here's a link to an old article I wrote a10 years old. http://www.blumhors t.com/potterpage s/gelcoat. htm (If you have a small section of the deck to refinish, I'd probably spray it with gelcoat. If you need to match the non-skid texture, there's a way to do that too, but it's a different procedure and a lot more work. If you want to refinish the whole deck or a discrete section, then 2-part LPU paint is probbly the top finish I'd chose.) Fair winds, Judy B
