James, I'm with you, doing it myself for the first time. I'll share some of the tips I've picked up while researching this project.
First, make sure you've treated all blisters or dings before getting started. Once you're all set that way, I've been advised to go on and start sanding. Using 80-grit on a random orbital sander, take off the old paint, but try to stay as even as you can. Careful not to strip away too much of the barrier coat while sanding. On equipment, most boat yards tend to require a sander that can capture the dust, given the toxicity. Also, just is being a good neighbor considering other boats may be further along in the process and dust drying into another bottom paint would be a real bummer. Also, on the sanding, I've been advised to wear goggles, repsirator mask, earplugs, and clothes to cover ALL of my skin. It's apparently just that nasty, and who wants cancer anyway, right? After I finish sanding, I'm planning to do the above-the-waterline hull maintenance. I'm using PoliGlow, and I've been advised that the PoliPrep can streak the new bottom paint if it drips. So I figure I'll let it streak without worry by waiting 'til after the above the waterline hull is clean before I paint. After I've poliprepped and 'glowed, I'll put the new registration sticker and numbers on, and blue tape up the top of where I need to paint. Next, you're about ready to paint. But first, wipe down the newly sanded bottom with an acetone. It'll clean the last little bit of imperfections off the bottom and make sure your paint adheres well. Next, I'll get the rollers out and paint. I've been told again to cover up here, since the copper is just as bad at this point. Also, I was told a gallon should get 2 coats on a C27. The paint's supposed to dry pretty quickly, so you might be able to get the painting done in an afternoon. I've heard the trick to moving the stands is to put some wax paper on the stand pad when you move it so as not to screw up the paint you've just applied. Not sure if you need the lift to move the stands or not--I imagine it depends on the boat yard policy. Either way, it's important to remember to save a little paint when rolling at first to get the spots under the stands and underneath the keel where it's been sitting all winter. Some say you don't have to bother with moving the stands, instead opting to just slap some paint on in the carry-time from the stands to the water, but I just can't think it'd dry sufficiently in time. I would welcome thoughts based on experience here. Anyway, that's kinda my plan. I'm spreading it out over a couple of weekends, but looking forward to the end product. She's so much faster with a clean hull! Hope it helps your planning. I also welcome any remarks that might save me some headaches!! Bailey s/v Carioca #6157 --- In [email protected], James Henderson <lamar_...@...> wrote: > > > Do you do it yourself? I think the job would be easy enough, but the sanding > part scares me with all the toxic dust and what not.... I've considered wet > sanding, but don't know anything about that. Any advice? > > > > Thanks, > > James > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3 >
