Dick,
There is a sending unit located on the port side of the engine behind the starter which I am almost certain senses low oil pressure. Mine was not working when I bought the boat. A guy crewing for the boat next to mine worked for a marine dealer and he got me one gratis. Neither light on the panel was working but after I changed the sending unit both work. The other one is somewhere in the cooling system and reads cooling water temperature. My engine temperature gage has always worked. The engine runs at 175 degrees whether river water temperature is 45 or 85 degrees. The engine is a Kabota which was converted to marine use by Universal. The model number is on the end of the oil dipstick. Mine is a Z 500. I would check with a Kabota dealer, the sending unit should be the same with a considerably lower price. You might talk with a mechanic or the parts guy at the Kabota dealer. I got a replacement cooling system cap from them. Your problem could be a thermostat. John Emmerich C27 TR 5874 Louisville, KY From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Sonshingle Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 9:03 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [IC27A] M18 Temp sending unit I'm having a slight temperature issue. I put white vinegar in the heat exchanger side of the cooling system and flushed it out. The temp seemed to stay around 165 but would jump up then come back to maybe 180. I still am going to flush the fresh water side but went on Torrensen Marine's website to price a temp sending unit and see that it is $84. Has anyone had to change the sending unit on a M18? Dick Schmidt Greenville, NC Rush No More --- On Tue, 9/7/10, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote: From: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [IC27A] (no subject) - Rebedding Hardware To: [email protected] Date: Tuesday, September 7, 2010, 3:51 PM Thanks Phil, 4200 it is Ted In a message dated 9/7/2010 1:05:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [email protected] writes: Ted, Silicone RTV caulk is not you best choice. It has low adhesion properties therefore it is easy to break the seal and develop a leak. A poly sulfide marine caulk is much better adhesion. There are a few good ones out there. 3M 4200 would be one good choice. I like silicone caulk for sealing around thinks like marine speakers or instruments that don’t do any work on the boat. It makes servicing or changing them in the future much easier. I like to use the tooth pick approach whenever bedding deck hardware to help mold a true gasket. The gasket needs to be resilient to stand up to the rigors of sailing. When a piece of hardware is stressed one side of the gasket will often be compressed while the other side stretched. The stretching side is where the silicone’s low adhesion lets it fail but any caulk can be ripped loose if it is too thin to stretch. Paper thin caulking rips with paper thin motion. I look to mold a 1/16” thick gasket by cutting round tooth picks in half as spacers so you can loosely assemble the hardware onto the wet caulk without squeezing it too thin. Once the caulking is set you remove the tooth picks, tighten the hardware, and touch up as required. It strikes me applying a 1/16” bead around the each hole on the teak hand rail and allowing that to dry completely before doing a loose assembly with wet caulking to form the full size gasket could accomplish the same thing. Bring some toothpicks just in case the hand rail needs to be sprung in place, as it might crush the 1/16th bead at the first point on contact. One word of caution - 3M5200 (a marine wooden boat adhesive) should be avoided on a fiberglass boat. It will be next to impossible to remove the teak in the future without breaking the teak or ripping up gel coat if 3M5200 is used. Phil Agur Capitol City N-Trak - All DCC - Sacramento, CA Mid Century N- California - SP, WP, SF, UP, TWS, and others. http://www.capitolcityntrak.org/ http://www.cuttergraphics.com/N-trak/ From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 7:42 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [IC27A] (no subject) Hello all, I have removed the teak hand rails to refinish then. When re installing, I was going to use clear silicone to re bed them. What is the best technique to use? I could apply the silicone and replace the rail when the silicone is still wet or is it best to let a ring of silicone dry on the hull around the screw hole and then place the rail after it completely dry. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Ted Pinelli
