http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/07/world/middleeast/syrian-war-devastates-ancient-sites.html?ref=global-home&_r=0&pagewanted=all

Grave Robbers and War Steal Syria’s History
 
Bryan Denton for The New York Times
Remains of the ancient city of Ebla. Its excavation has offered many insights 
into early Syrian civilization, but war is taking a toll on the site, like many 
others here. 

By C. J. CHIVERS
Published: April 6, 2013 

TELL MARDIKH, Syria — Ali Shibleh crawled through a two-foot-high tunnel until 
reaching a slightly larger subterranean space. He swung his flashlight’s beam 
into the dark. 

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A fighter opposed to President Bashar al-Assad, Mr. Shibleh was roaming beneath 
Ebla, an ancient ruin that for several decades has been one of Syria’s most 
carefully studied and publicly celebrated archaeological sites. He had just 
made another of his many finds: he lifted something resembling a dried stick, 
then squeezed it between his fingers and thumb. 
It broke with a powdery snap. “This is human bone,” he said. 

Across much of Syria, the country’s archaeological heritage is imperiled by 
war, facing threats ranging from outright destruction by bombs and bullets to 
opportunistic digging by treasure hunters who take advantage of the power 
vacuum to prowl the country with spades and shovels. Fighting has raged around 
the Roman ruins of Palmyra, the ancient city in central Syria, once known as 
the Bride of the Desert. And the Syrian Army has established active garrisons 
at some of the country’s most treasured and antiquated citadels, including 
castles at Aleppo, Hama and Homs. 

For decades Ebla has been celebrated for the insights it offers into early 
Syrian civilization. The scenes here today offer something else: a prime 
example of a peculiar phenomenon of Syria’s civil war — scores, if not 
hundreds, of archaeological sites, often built and inhabited millenniums ago 
because of their military value, now at risk as they are put to military use 
once more. 

Seen from afar, Ebla is a mound rising above the Idlib plain. It was first 
settled more than 5,000 years ago. It eventually became a fortified walled city 
whose residents worshiped multiple gods, and traded olive oil and beer across 
Mesopotamia. The city was destroyed around 2200 B.C., flourished anew several 
centuries later and then was destroyed again. 

The latest disruption came after war began in 2011. Once rebels pushed the army 
back and into nearby garrisons, the outcropping upon which Ebla rests presented 
a modern martial utility: it was ideal for spotting passing government military 
planes. 

And so Mr. Shibleh and several other fighters have been posted on the mound 
with two-way radios, to report the approaches of the MIG and Sukhoi attack jets 
that have repeatedly dropped bombs on cities and towns that have fallen from 
Mr. Assad’s control. 

“I keep a watch here,” he said. 

He and other members of his fighting group, which calls itself The Arrows of 
the Right, perform a dual duty. They say they also try to protect Ebla from 
full-on looting by thieves who want to sort through the place with earth-moving 
equipment, looking for artifacts to sell on the black market. 

But even if the presence of The Arrows of the Right may have prevented the site 
from being scoured by bulldozer blades, it has brought harm. Ebla, occupied by 
even a few rebels, is suffering the effects of more traffic, damage and theft. 

Mr. Shibleh himself digs on the ancient mound, and he has explored its 
underground passages. He led the way on this day into a series of ancient 
crypts. 

“It is another country underground,” he said, crawling on his chest through 
tunnels he clearly knew well. 

In one section of tunnel, Mr. Shibleh found a large scoop-shaped piece of bone 
that appeared to be as light as a wafer. It had been part of a human head. 
“There were too many skulls,” he said. “The cave here was full of them.” 

Those skulls, he said, are now gone — removed by artifact hunters and then 
thrown away. 

Grave sites are potential spots to find jewelry or figurines, as some corpses 
were interred with offerings and possessions. This has made Ebla, like hundreds 
of other sites in a country that sometimes refers to itself as an open-air 
archaeological museum, a tempting spot for thieves. 

Ebla’s crypts have not been the source of its fame. In the 1960s and 1970s the 
city’s prominence was restored and its name became well known among 
archaeologists when an archaeological mission led by an Italian, Paolo 
Matthiae, discovered the city-state’s long buried archive, which held more than 
16,000 stone tablets. 

As they have been translated from cuneiform script, these records written on 
stone have shed light on the administration, trade, theology and life in a city 
from another time. 

“Ebla was the most important and prominent kingdom in the era of 3000 B.C.,” 
said Cheikhmous Ali, a Syrian archaeologist and an organizer of Protect Syrian 
Archaeology, an association that has been documenting damage and theft of 
Syrian antiquities. 

The Ebla tablets, he said, along with another set found in Tal Baidar, “are 
considered the most ancient cuneiform texts in Syria.” 

The meticulous excavation of Ebla’s ruins had continued in the decades since 
the tablets were unearthed, and layer by layer had turned up more artifacts. 
Archaeologists had left much of the site undisturbed, for careful sifting by 
future teams. They hoped for more finds. 

That methodical examination has recently been replaced by crude digging and 
crime. 

After Mr. Shibleh returned above ground, children were digging holes in the 
undisturbed sections of the mound, seeking more artifacts. Mr. Shibleh said 
some people also come to the site and haul away carloads of dirt from inside 
the tunnels; it is ideal, he said, for making the ceramic liner for 
bread-baking ovens. 

Dr. Matthiae did not reply to e-mail messages. But after being shown 
photographs taken by The New York Times of the digging and intrusion into the 
crypts at Ebla, Mr. Ali was dismayed. He compared the continuing damage to the 
destruction of antiquities in Iraq after the American-led invasion in 2003. 

“This is vandalism,” he said. “Destroying the site by throwing the skeletons 
haphazardly here and there.” 

He added: “A whole civilization belonging to all humanity is being destroyed.” 

Mr. Ali and Maamoun Abdul-Karim, who leads the Directorate General of 
Antiquities and Museums in Syria, said that archaeologists on both sides of the 
war have appealed to the combatants to avoid using ancient sites for military 
purposes, and to protect ruins from vandals, looters and thieves. 

The effort has had only a limited effect. “Even before the situation in Syria 
now, we didn’t have very good control,” Dr. Abdul-Karim said. 

Dr. Abdul-Karim said his ministry has repeatedly asked the Syrian military to 
refrain from occupying ancient fortresses and historic places. 

With military garrisons come almost casual damage — from foot and vehicular 
traffic, makeshift construction, digging for bunkers and sandbags, the use of 
open latrines, graffiti and more — as well as the risks to the ruins from bombs 
and bullets. 

“To the soldiers, we try by all messages from 23 million Syrians, to say: ‘Do 
not use the archaeology sites. It is our history, it is our heritage, it is for 
all people, it is for the world.’ ” 

“We cannot refuse the army,” he said ruefully. “The problem is that in some 
areas the fighting is very strong, and we can do nothing except to give the 
message.” 


A version of this article appeared in print on April 7, 2013, on page A1 of the 
New York edition with the headline: Grave Robbers And War Steal Syria’s History.

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