Chris
Check out Roy Szarafinski's Fifth Bearing at roysgarage.com in Osseo,
Michigan.Pete Klapp, building N729PK,Canton, Ohio
> Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 17:44:43 +0000
> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
> From: krnet at list.krnet.org
> CC: billjacobs386 at yahoo.com
>
> There are a couple of versions of an additional front mounted bearing.
> It's called a 5th bearing, BTA, (better than air), etc. Go to flycorvair.net
> or Dan Wesemans Fly with SPA. Or google Corvallis 5th bearing. Bill Jacobs
> Daytona Beach, Fl.
>
> On Thursday, June 23, 2016 12:44 PM, Kayak Chris via KRnet <krnet at
> list.krnet.org> wrote:
>
>
> Well this set of comments would have me steer well clear of GPASC
> engine. Even if they are reliable when properly mated and assembled,
> it sounds like their crankshaft/hub solution is not very serviceable
> down the line.
>
> After all these years how can this not been resolved? Presumably the
> revmaster solution is more certain in service and serviceability.
>
>
> Having built one of these several times, I'm not
> > a fan of the keyway setup. The slots are in hub and crank are shallow, and
> > the key is provided as a square key that you need to grind (or mill) down to
> > something way thinner to fit between hub and crank. Getting a good fit with
> > maximum material is trial and error. The key is only there to ensure the
> > timing mark stays constant if the hub is removed. The taper is where the
> > power is transferred.
> >
> > Crank and hub are also matched sets due to tolerances on the angle. The hub
> > still needs to be lapped onto the crank, which is a two-hour chore by hand.
> >
> > The hub/bearing clearance is not consistent. The crank and bearing are sold
> > as a set, and getting a new bearing for an existing crank is iffy. I've
> > torqued the case to 8 ft-lbs and the crank still spun, then when I torqued
> > it to 14 the crank seized. No amount of refitting cured that one. I'm not
> > a great fan of the prop bolt...1/2" RH threads. Revmaster's is .75" LH
> > threads, which can be torqued higher for a better connection. Otherwise, a
> > simple engine backfire can unscrew the prop, despite proper torque and
> > Loctite 620 on the bolt threads.
> >
> > If the crankshaft's oil seal leaks, the hub isn't going to come off without
> > a 20 ton press, so tear the engine down to replace the seals, and hope the
> > next seals work better. My luck with those seals has not been good either.
> > That's the only place my engine has lost oil.
>
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