The stuff is called pro-seal. thin layer between the sheets - and rivet it together.
I know it works GREAT on metal - not sure about fiberglass. Do NOT get it on your skin or you will NOT get it off - stuff is messy and once you open the container - it have a very short life even if you seal the container. For fiberglass aircraft that I have built (vari-eze, 2 long ez, cozy IV)- we use an epoxy called "EZ-poxy" it seems to be the most fuel resistent stuff out there. for the top - we mix it with flox for body - and just weight the top to the sealing surface. Hope this helps. M. ________________________________ From: KRnet <[email protected]> on behalf of Flesner via KRnet <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2022 5:03 PM To: Jeff Scott <[email protected]>; krnet <[email protected]> Cc: Flesner <[email protected]> Subject: Re: KRnet> sloshing Wing tanks Not sure just how I'd have "sloshed" these tanks, one in each wing. I glassed the bottom panel, allowed to cure, then attached with a resin rich flox bead on all surfaces. The bottom foam panel was then installed and sanded to shape and glassed. Larry Flesner [https://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/22.jpg] ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Sloshing fuel tanks typically means putting some slosh compound in the tank, then, as in the case of my KR, position the wing so as to allow the compound to run along a seam to seal it, then move the wing to run it down the next seam, etc until all the seams have a thin coating to seal any weeps. -Jeff Scott +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I'm not sure how anyone could close up a tank like mine and fill it with a liquid, even as viscus as water, and know it covered all the necessary parts of the tank. My odds would be better at shooting turkeys in the dark. Question: What material are the tens of thousands of Cessna and Piper tanks constructed with, aluminum or steel. What keep them from leaking? If aluminum tanks fail at the welded seams, why not construct the tank to the point of all sides finished except the top with external welded seams, run an additional bead on the inside of the seams, then rivet the top to flat seam covered with Pro-seal and weld the seam externally. Except for abrasion or puncture what could ever fail? Tip: to help find a leak in the tank use a piece of plastic hose, 3/8" to 1/2" diameter about 24" or so long, hold one end to your ear and scan the tank with the other end. If you get anywhere close to the leak you'll hear it. I found my leak in a mater of minutes. A resin rich layup, squeegeed to fill all pinholes, and possibly an additional coat of resin brushed on, is much easier than cutting the tank open to repair leaks or slosh a tank with, basically, your eyes closed. Whichever method / material you chose, do it right or do it over......... Larry Flesner
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