Hi Annette -

I have found that the silk I work with (Tire) likes to lose
it's twist when I work with it.  It also had a lot of
trouble with the hitch jumping off the neck of the bobbin.
So for this latest project (a Milanese piece started during
a workshop with Louise Colgan!) I took a closer look and my
suspicions were confirmed...  Tire silk has a Z-twist
instead of the S-twist I'm accustomed to.  While many
knowledgeable people say that that makes no difference, I
can tell you that reversing the direction I wound my bobbins
made a huge difference in how the thread behaved.  So be
sure you know which way your silk is twisted, and wind
accordingly.

Clay

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Annette Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 3:42 AM
Subject: [lace] Re: Working with silk thread


> Robin,
>
> Thanks very much for your suggestions about silk threads.
I think I've seen
> YLI threads in local quilt shops, but I don't know whether
that included
> their silks.  (Or maybe it was in Hobbycraft - sorry for
mentioning the H
> word, Jean and Liz!)  Thanks also for the tip about the
thread untwisting -
> I have problems with that when I use continental bobbins,
so I'd better
> stick to Midlands bobbins when I use silk.
>
> Regards,
> Annette, London
>
> > In my opinion, silk is no harder to use than linen and
cotton.  Gutermann
> > silk is the most like cotton in look and feel, so I
don't think you want
> > that if you're trying silk for its difference.
> >
> > Tire and YLI (and a third brand I can't think of right
now) silk come on
> > spools that look like sewing machine thread, and that's
the stuff I'd
> > recommend.  It comes in size 50 and 100, and I've used
both sizes for
> Bucks
> > and torchon patterns...
>
> > You do have to watch the rolling bobbins.  The thread is
very strong while
> > it's properly twisted, but when bobbins roll around it
can come untwisted
> > and then it breaks easily...
>
> -
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