I am on another list with a woman who worked at the Arizona State Museum.

When I posted this link to that list, she said "I retired from the Arizona
State Museum [in 2002] -- leaving the Tonto shirt was harder than leaving
some of my colleagues. It is truly a remarkable piece."

She also says " . . . the structure should be interlinking (see Irene
Emery's _The Primary Structures of Fabrics_). Sprang is a technique that
can be used to produce a variety of structures -- interlinked sprang,
interlaced sprang, and so forth (see Peter Collingwood's book on sprang
techniques). I'm going to contact the folks at ASM to clarify the caption .
. . "

http://www.statemuseum.arizona.edu/coll/peris2.shtml

The name "sprang" for this group of techniques is Scandinavian, but the
technique has been found all over the world.  (Another name for it, to add
to the confusion, is "knotless netting".)

If you have a copy of Gertrude Whiting's "Old-Time Tools & Toys of
Needlework", page 79 shows a sprang frame with work in progress that looks
somewhat like a piece of knitted lace.  The "List of Illustrations" in the
front of the book (page X) calls this "Egypto-Ruthenian Lace with
Stretcher-Frame".

Her description, written in the 1920's, says "Call it a loom, a frame, a
stretcher -- what you will.  A Greek term has been applied to the recently
discovered spinning-knee of Greece, so perhaps an Egyptian word meaning
"stretcher-frame" should be given to this appliance.  As shown in the
picture, the wires under and over which the thread is first set up can be
tightened by means of pegs.  By manipulating the threads in the center --
lifting one in front of the other -- a double stitch is produced, one
accumulating above, a like one at the same time below, in this way forming
with one set of operations two identical strips of lace."

The photo appears in the chapter called "Instruments of Precision --
Measures", but the only description of the piece I have found in the book
is the one below the photo itself, and the title in the list of illustrations.

Lynn Carpenter in SW Michigan, USA
alwen at i2k dot com

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