My last posting on the subject, honest Injun. I do realise its connection to lacemaking is almost non-existent, but it's irresistibele... So much of what's been posted rings loud bells: "I knew it! Just forgot..."

On Jan 13, 2006, at 12:52, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Jacquie) wrote:

A tailored buttonhole has an extra thread laid around the buttonhole, from the straight edge around the rounded end and back to the straight
end.  The stitches are worked over this

I was taught to outline all buttonholes -- on thin and thick fabrics alike -- with a running stitch, for strength. It also provided a good guide for the evenness "legs" of the buttonhole stitches -- they all ended just past that line.

In the round end of this buttonhole there would also most likely be a small hole punched

"Keyhole buttonholes"... I was taught how to deal with those and with the square-ended ones...

With proper hand sewn buttonholes, a horizontal buttonhole has a rounded end nearest to the opening, where the button will sit but vertical ones have two square ends to give extra strength and the button sits in the centre of the
slit.

I used to watch my Mother repair the horizontal buttonholes on her shirts and dresses (she was busty to begin with, and kept gaining weight, adding stress to the fabric), and never could understand why women's clothes "had to" (or so I was told) have horizontal buttonholes, while men were allowed the vertical ones. The horizontal ones rip, if you move with too much energy; the vertical ones don't. The buttonholes on the right or left depending on gender never made much sense to me either... Once I started making my own clothes here, I moved to the "male version" for both.

Blanket stitch is the simpler stitch, where the thread just loops under the
tip of the needle on each stitch

That, however, was what I was taught as being used to make buttonholes. Never seen the other (twisted buttonhole) until tonight... :)

Jean wrote:

Everywhere else it was buttonhole stitch (with the half knot on the edge), including around the eyes of hooks and eyes to sew them on

Boy, does _that_ bring back memories... :) In my childhood, we only had one half of the hook/eye contraption -- the hook. We sewed its eyes with an overcast. The "eye part" we made "from scratch": we made a loop, which consisted of several passes, each anchored in the fabric by a minute stitch. The passes in the loop formed the core over which you buttonholed. When I came here and encountered the two-part hooks, I didn't quite know what to do with them at first :)
--
Tamara P Duvall                            http://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA     (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)

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