The outer threads need to be *much* wider apart than the finished width of the leaf (or square tally for that matter) - about two or three inches at the bobbin. The resulting angle from bobbin head to lace is what forces the weaving up into the leaf.
To be able to do this you need a space clear on the pillow so you do the leaf first, as soon as the pairs are available, rather than working the ground/plaits either side of it. If this isn't possible, occasionally you may need to push some pinheads flat to the pillow. The basic rule which applies whichever method you use to actually do the tally, is that you only tension the worker bobbin after you have a firm tension on the passives, and you relax the worker before you relax the passives. It is usually helpful to have the worker thread a good bit longer than the passives; you can see at a glance which one it is and you are less likely to accidently pull at it and collapse the tally. >From observation of many students over the years, uneven edges are more likely to be from the worker not tight enough as it turns around the passives rather than it being too tight. So long as the passives are held firmly, you can tension the worker as much as you need to, to get a neat edge. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
