Based on the difference between ICE and electric motivation, there is no rotating mass like in an ICE, pistons, rods, etc. that can be an issue when backing off the throttle, so it is different, and unless you are using regenerative breaking the motor will just spin down slowly (direct experience with the PMG-132, I suspect the series wound same thing. Clutch-less should be okay, and if you can't use the spring mechanism of the disk and just use the splined piece you will find it very workable. Did not know the BMW used something other synchros, learn something new every day. I always thought of their driveline more like automobile trans, dry clutch and all... Partial rebuilds can be costly, $1900 to replace the splined input shaft and clutch on my 1100RT.
One thing I have experienced with my BMWs is they shift much better when moving, they sometimes get lost between gears, so if shifting seems difficult on this old trans, you may want to find neutral before you stop. Or more likely select your gear as appropriate for the type of driving as Damon (I think) suggested; 2nd gear maybe for around town brisk acceleration and sub 35mph, and 4th or 5th for hiway speeds. Cheers, Jeff 84 Franken'ceptor On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 6:29 PM, SteveS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Good points. My /2 ICE is a bit clunky too. Interesting info on the > difference in transmissions. I sorta knew it, but hadn't really thought > it through. > > The guy I bought the R65 tranny from said he looked at it and thinks it > will mate up - I really only need the output flange bolt pattern to > match the driveshaft flange. I doubt they changed much from 1960 to 1980 > (I hope). The splines should only be relevant to the drive shaft to rear > drive, which is original; and the tranny input shaft, which I need to > work with. I got the tranny cheap because the input splines are worn > (common problem), but I only need the splines to be good in one area as > the clutch plate doesn't need to slide - I am planning on using an old > clutch plate as you suggest, though I hadn't thought about the taking > advantage of the spring cushion - good idea. > > If upshifts are the easier side, that is good, as I'm more likely to > need to upshift while moving - accelerating. I should be able to > downshift after I stop. > > Ahhh all this armchair designing! Of course if I hadn't gone forward > with the misconception that high gear is 1:1 instead of 1.5:1 I > wouldn't be in this bit of a mess. > > I just came up from the basement trying to figure out how to make the > components all fit around the transmission - not pretty. Damn, this is fun! > > - SteveS > > > > > > > Chris Tromley wrote: > > Hi Steve, > > > > First thing that jumps out is, did you check to make sure the R65 > > output spline mates with your /7(?) driveshaft? Just checking. > > > > As for shifting clutchless, it's a different game than with cars. > > Motorcycle transmissions have no synchronizers. They use dog > > clutches, basically large mating bosses and slots on the sides of the > > gears that can take huge amounts of abuse. They are also inherently > > more crunchy, clunky, notchy, whatever you want to call them. They > > work well on many bikes because there are at least five speeds, making > > less of a jump between ratios, the flywheel effect on most bikes is > > minimal, the gears are small to reduce impact forces, etc. Much of > > this doesn't apply to big twins like BMWs. My 4 speed /5 had a very > > "agricultural" feel to it. I've heard they got better with later > > models, but they're still big beefy drivetrains. > > > > I would guess that upshifts will be no problem, though you might think > > you're breaking something every time you shift until you get the hang > > of it. Downshifts could be iffy. If it was me I'd make a coupler > > that uses the spring cushion center part of the clutch disc. > > Otherwise when you downshift you will be instantaneously accelerating > > the motor to a higher speed. > > > > As I recall you're using a small motor, so you're going to want to use > > the trans during normal riding. You might want to make something > > quick to start riding, but don't design yourself out of the ability to > > shift on the fly. > > > > Chris > > > > On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 10:44 AM, SteveS <[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote: > > > > I'm getting an R65 tranny which has 5 speeds. I'm still undecided > > about > > a motor. I think I'm going to put the tranny in with my current motor. > > That will let me try that motor with several gear ratios and > > actually be > > able to run it at some different speeds and slopes. With that I > > ought to > > be able to figure out what size motor it would take to run without the > > tranny. I just don't want to spend $1000 or so on a motor that isn't > > suited, so I'm going kinda slow and detailed. > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.6/1316 - Release Date: 3/6/2008 > 6:58 PM > > > > >
