Good points. My /2 ICE is a bit clunky too. Interesting info on the
difference in transmissions. I sorta knew it, but hadn't really thought
it through.
The guy I bought the R65 tranny from said he looked at it and thinks it
will mate up - I really only need the output flange bolt pattern to
match the driveshaft flange. I doubt they changed much from 1960 to 1980
(I hope). The splines should only be relevant to the drive shaft to rear
drive, which is original; and the tranny input shaft, which I need to
work with. I got the tranny cheap because the input splines are worn
(common problem), but I only need the splines to be good in one area as
the clutch plate doesn't need to slide - I am planning on using an old
clutch plate as you suggest, though I hadn't thought about the taking
advantage of the spring cushion - good idea.
If upshifts are the easier side, that is good, as I'm more likely to
need to upshift while moving - accelerating. I should be able to
downshift after I stop.
Ahhh all this armchair designing! Of course if I hadn't gone forward
with the misconception that high gear is 1:1 instead of 1.5:1 I
wouldn't be in this bit of a mess.
I just came up from the basement trying to figure out how to make the
components all fit around the transmission - not pretty. Damn, this is fun!
- SteveS
Chris Tromley wrote:
Hi Steve,
First thing that jumps out is, did you check to make sure the R65
output spline mates with your /7(?) driveshaft? Just checking.
As for shifting clutchless, it's a different game than with cars.
Motorcycle transmissions have no synchronizers. They use dog
clutches, basically large mating bosses and slots on the sides of the
gears that can take huge amounts of abuse. They are also inherently
more crunchy, clunky, notchy, whatever you want to call them. They
work well on many bikes because there are at least five speeds, making
less of a jump between ratios, the flywheel effect on most bikes is
minimal, the gears are small to reduce impact forces, etc. Much of
this doesn't apply to big twins like BMWs. My 4 speed /5 had a very
"agricultural" feel to it. I've heard they got better with later
models, but they're still big beefy drivetrains.
I would guess that upshifts will be no problem, though you might think
you're breaking something every time you shift until you get the hang
of it. Downshifts could be iffy. If it was me I'd make a coupler
that uses the spring cushion center part of the clutch disc.
Otherwise when you downshift you will be instantaneously accelerating
the motor to a higher speed.
As I recall you're using a small motor, so you're going to want to use
the trans during normal riding. You might want to make something
quick to start riding, but don't design yourself out of the ability to
shift on the fly.
Chris
On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 10:44 AM, SteveS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
I'm getting an R65 tranny which has 5 speeds. I'm still undecided
about
a motor. I think I'm going to put the tranny in with my current motor.
That will let me try that motor with several gear ratios and
actually be
able to run it at some different speeds and slopes. With that I
ought to
be able to figure out what size motor it would take to run without the
tranny. I just don't want to spend $1000 or so on a motor that isn't
suited, so I'm going kinda slow and detailed.
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