I initially set up my clutch lever as a disconnect, figuring that my
cycling reflexes would have me pull both levers and stomp the rear
brake in an emergency stop situation.
I had run it to a 12 volt switch that would interrupt the main
contactor, with plans to physically connect it to the breaker later
on.
However, I found that my reflexes are REALLY to pull the clutch lever
every time I stop, which would mean resetting the breaker frequently
and while in traffic.
I also found that I'd pull the clutch before I'd completely released
the throttle, so I'd open the contactor while it was still carrying
current, not good for the contactor.
So... I've disconnected the clutch cable for now, though I'm thinking
maybe it should be connected to the controller "enable" circuit.
Also, I've mounted the breaker just in front of my left knee where I
can reach it without much trouble, and it has an inch wide lever which
I can flip even with gloves on.
I labeled it with 1 1/2 high red letters ("ON" and "OFF"), so anyone
else can figure out how to shut if off in an emergency.
Besides, it gives it the look of a monster light switch, and
unmistakably screams "I'm Electric!".
Sorry my web server is dead so I can't show you photos.
Mike Shipway
1978 Honda GL1000 "Goldwing"
6.2 inch series wound DC motor (50 pounds)
48 volts worth of BB-600 aircraft nicads (135 pounds) almost finished
w/ installation.
300 pounds of gas engine and transmission removed.
Bare frame 250 pounds, rated for 1200 pounds Maximum GVW
Soon to be adding 320 more pounds of nicads in saddlebags (2 more 48
volt strings).
On Thu, Mar 20, 2008 at 1:27 AM, Andrew Wowk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Damon:
>
> > They can be used as safety devices to switch off full load under fault
> conditions. That is their pupose.
>
>
> Based on what Jeff is saying, it appears like they can, but only if they are
> set up to self actuate. In summary than, I need to change my setup, and my
> idea of a circuit breaker activated clutch cable is totally WRONG!! If this
> is true, than it means:
>
> 1. They can't be an "oh **** disconnect" actuated manually. There's no logic
> behind a clutch cable actuated breaker, or any manual activation of a
> breaker for that matter.
>
> 2. They can't be actuated regularly to take over the function of a switch
> for energizing the vehicle.
>
> 3. They must be placed in the circuit, switched on, and left alone, in which
> case they are very similar to a fuse. Since a fuse is better (and should
> always be used anyway), there's no need for a breaker in its designed-for
> operation when using a fuse. And, further, it may be a safety hazard because
> it might not break current when one is expecting it to by manual activation.
>
> Ok, now I understand. I need to rethink some things. I want a full blown
> disconnect, i.e., not relying on anything but my own brute force, and some
> hefty contacts to break the connection. And I want this to be actuated by
> the clutch cable.
>
> A knife switch would be doable, but difficult to isolate the clutch cable
> electrically. I could maybe set it up with some Anderson connectors, and a
> mechanically actuated lever to pull them apart. I'd need to multiply the
> motion, as the cable doesn't move much.
>
> The next best thing I was thinking would be to run some extra wire, and
> place a big red button (BRB) somewhere near my left hand. I need my right
> foot & hand free for the brakes at all times. Something like this:
> http://www.evparts.com/prod-SW2514.htm
>
> Anyway, thanks for pointing that out to me.
>
> Regards,
> Andrew in NM
>
--
Michael Shipway
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype: mike.shipway
AIM: catbusmike
YIM: catbusmike
