Mike Shipway,
Would a two part disconnect work in this instance?
1. a disable of the throttle either in series with the
throttle or directly to the controller
2. then squeezed all the way, an all out disconnect
On my bike, the Lectra, the EMB company designed a 3
part brake/throttle disable otherwise the keyswitch is
supposed to be the disconnect. The rear brake/regen
located at the right footpeg looks like it will be
very ergonomic (Dont know, I havent bought batts yet).
1. variable regen that disables the throttle at the
controller
2. as the bike slows down, the regen lessens at 5mph
and then regen disengages at 2 mph
3. rear brakes are engaged hydraulically when fully
depressed
This leaves the EMB rider's hands free to grab both
handbrakes in an instant. I dont know if the
handbrakes also act as throttle disable, though. I
will have to look at the literature.
--- Mike Shipway wrote:
> I initially set up my clutch lever as a disconnect,
> figuring that my
> cycling reflexes would have me pull both levers and
> stomp the rear
> brake in an emergency stop situation.
> I had run it to a 12 volt switch that would
> interrupt the main
> contactor, with plans to physically connect it to
> the breaker later
> on.
>
> However, I found that my reflexes are REALLY to pull
> the clutch lever
> every time I stop, which would mean resetting the
> breaker frequently
> and while in traffic.
> I also found that I'd pull the clutch before I'd
> completely released
> the throttle, so I'd open the contactor while it was
> still carrying
> current, not good for the contactor.
> So... I've disconnected the clutch cable for now,
> though I'm thinking
> maybe it should be connected to the controller
> "enable" circuit.
>
> Also, I've mounted the breaker just in front of my
> left knee where I
> can reach it without much trouble, and it has an
> inch wide lever which
> I can flip even with gloves on.
> I labeled it with 1 1/2 high red letters ("ON" and
> "OFF"), so anyone
> else can figure out how to shut if off in an
> emergency.
> Besides, it gives it the look of a monster light
> switch, and
> unmistakably screams "I'm Electric!".
>
> Sorry my web server is dead so I can't show you
> photos.
>
> Mike Shipway
> 1978 Honda GL1000 "Goldwing"
> 6.2 inch series wound DC motor (50 pounds)
> 48 volts worth of BB-600 aircraft nicads (135
> pounds) almost finished
> w/ installation.
> 300 pounds of gas engine and transmission removed.
> Bare frame 250 pounds, rated for 1200 pounds Maximum
> GVW
> Soon to be adding 320 more pounds of nicads in
> saddlebags (2 more 48
> volt strings).
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 20, 2008 at 1:27 AM, Andrew Wowk
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Damon:
> >
> > > They can be used as safety devices to switch off
> full load under fault
> > conditions. That is their pupose.
> >
> >
> > Based on what Jeff is saying, it appears like they
> can, but only if they are
> > set up to self actuate. In summary than, I need to
> change my setup, and my
> > idea of a circuit breaker activated clutch cable
> is totally WRONG!! If this
> > is true, than it means:
> >
> > 1. They can't be an "oh **** disconnect" actuated
> manually. There's no logic
> > behind a clutch cable actuated breaker, or any
> manual activation of a
> > breaker for that matter.
> >
> > 2. They can't be actuated regularly to take over
> the function of a switch
> > for energizing the vehicle.
> >
> > 3. They must be placed in the circuit, switched
> on, and left alone, in which
> > case they are very similar to a fuse. Since a fuse
> is better (and should
> > always be used anyway), there's no need for a
> breaker in its designed-for
> > operation when using a fuse. And, further, it may
> be a safety hazard because
> > it might not break current when one is expecting
> it to by manual activation.
> >
> > Ok, now I understand. I need to rethink some
> things. I want a full blown
> > disconnect, i.e., not relying on anything but my
> own brute force, and some
> > hefty contacts to break the connection. And I want
> this to be actuated by
> > the clutch cable.
> >
> > A knife switch would be doable, but difficult to
> isolate the clutch cable
> > electrically. I could maybe set it up with some
> Anderson connectors, and a
> > mechanically actuated lever to pull them apart.
> I'd need to multiply the
> > motion, as the cable doesn't move much.
> >
> > The next best thing I was thinking would be to run
> some extra wire, and
> > place a big red button (BRB) somewhere near my
> left hand. I need my right
> > foot & hand free for the brakes at all times.
> Something like this:
> > http://www.evparts.com/prod-SW2514.htm
> >
> > Anyway, thanks for pointing that out to me.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Andrew in NM
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Michael Shipway
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype: mike.shipway
> AIM: catbusmike
> YIM: catbusmike
>
>
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