Sorry it took so long to respond to this, Lyle's email got lost in my
inbox clutter.
On Fri, Mar 21, 2008 at 9:40 PM, lyle sloan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Mike Shipway,
>
> Would a two part disconnect work in this instance?
> 1. a disable of the throttle either in series with the
> throttle or directly to the controller
> 2. then squeezed all the way, an all out disconnect
That might work better, though I still don't like the idea of a one
way disconnect which needs to be reset in a different place.
It would still run counter to my conventional motorcycle reflexes, if
I pull the clutch lever in hard the motor would stop, but when I
release it I'd want the motor to re-engage.
However this sparked another idea. My clutch lever (1978 Honda
Goldwing GL1000) has a 12 volt Normally Open (NO)switch. I can wire
this across my 5 K ohm throttle pot.
I believe that zero ohms is off, while 5k ohms is full on (must check
before I wire this). With this wiring, pulling the clutch lever will
override the throttle pot by shorting to zero ohms.
Releasing the clutch will return it to whatever setting the throttle is at.
Some golf cart controllers have a safety feature where the controller
will not power up if the throttle pot is not zeroed when power is
connected. I've had problems with this on my electric motor-scooter
because my throttle pot would stick at ~100 and so would not allow the
power to come on. If the clutch where wired as above, it would
preserve this safety feature, and still give you a way to override it
so you could ride home and fix the throttle.
This would provide an instinctive way of overriding a stuck throttle.
It would not, however, help with broken controller, which I've read
can fail in FULL ON. For this you'd have to interrupt the main power,
as in contactor, fuse or breaker.
For this I've got my contactor's 12 volt coil power going thru the old
"Off/Run/Off" switch on the handle bar, easily flipped with my right
thumb.
I've also got the breaker's lever mounted where just ahead of my left
knee where I can easily reach it, in case the contactor disconnect
fails.
Additionally, I just got a BIG RED push button labeled "Emergency
Disconnect" at a hamfest. I figure I'll wire the contactor 12 volt
power through that also.
Now I just need to figure out where to mount a 2 inch red button.
> On my bike, the Lectra, the EMB company designed a 3
> part brake/throttle disable otherwise the keyswitch is
> supposed to be the disconnect. The rear brake/regen
> located at the right footpeg looks like it will be
> very ergonomic (Dont know, I havent bought batts yet).
> 1. variable regen that disables the throttle at the
> controller
> 2. as the bike slows down, the regen lessens at 5mph
> and then regen disengages at 2 mph
> 3. rear brakes are engaged hydraulically when fully
> depressed
>
> This leaves the EMB rider's hands free to grab both
> handbrakes in an instant. I dont know if the
> handbrakes also act as throttle disable, though. I
> will have to look at the literature.
>
>
>
> --- Mike Shipway wrote:
>
> > I initially set up my clutch lever as a disconnect,
> > figuring that my
> > cycling reflexes would have me pull both levers and
> > stomp the rear
> > brake in an emergency stop situation.
> > I had run it to a 12 volt switch that would
> > interrupt the main
> > contactor, with plans to physically connect it to
> > the breaker later
> > on.
> >
> > However, I found that my reflexes are REALLY to pull
> > the clutch lever
> > every time I stop, which would mean resetting the
> > breaker frequently
> > and while in traffic.
> > I also found that I'd pull the clutch before I'd
> > completely released
> > the throttle, so I'd open the contactor while it was
> > still carrying
> > current, not good for the contactor.
> > So... I've disconnected the clutch cable for now,
> > though I'm thinking
> > maybe it should be connected to the controller
> > "enable" circuit.
> >
> > Also, I've mounted the breaker just in front of my
> > left knee where I
> > can reach it without much trouble, and it has an
> > inch wide lever which
> > I can flip even with gloves on.
> > I labeled it with 1 1/2 high red letters ("ON" and
> > "OFF"), so anyone
> > else can figure out how to shut if off in an
> > emergency.
> > Besides, it gives it the look of a monster light
> > switch, and
> > unmistakably screams "I'm Electric!".
> >
> > Sorry my web server is dead so I can't show you
> > photos.
> >
> > Mike Shipway
> > 1978 Honda GL1000 "Goldwing"
> > 6.2 inch series wound DC motor (50 pounds)
> > 48 volts worth of BB-600 aircraft nicads (135
> > pounds) almost finished
> > w/ installation.
> > 300 pounds of gas engine and transmission removed.
> > Bare frame 250 pounds, rated for 1200 pounds Maximum
> > GVW
> > Soon to be adding 320 more pounds of nicads in
> > saddlebags (2 more 48
> > volt strings).
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Mar 20, 2008 at 1:27 AM, Andrew Wowk
> > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > Damon:
> > >
> > > > They can be used as safety devices to switch off
> > full load under fault
> > > conditions. That is their pupose.
> > >
> > >
> > > Based on what Jeff is saying, it appears like they
> > can, but only if they are
> > > set up to self actuate. In summary than, I need to
> > change my setup, and my
> > > idea of a circuit breaker activated clutch cable
> > is totally WRONG!! If this
> > > is true, than it means:
> > >
> > > 1. They can't be an "oh **** disconnect" actuated
> > manually. There's no logic
> > > behind a clutch cable actuated breaker, or any
> > manual activation of a
> > > breaker for that matter.
> > >
> > > 2. They can't be actuated regularly to take over
> > the function of a switch
> > > for energizing the vehicle.
> > >
> > > 3. They must be placed in the circuit, switched
> > on, and left alone, in which
> > > case they are very similar to a fuse. Since a fuse
> > is better (and should
> > > always be used anyway), there's no need for a
> > breaker in its designed-for
> > > operation when using a fuse. And, further, it may
> > be a safety hazard because
> > > it might not break current when one is expecting
> > it to by manual activation.
> > >
> > > Ok, now I understand. I need to rethink some
> > things. I want a full blown
> > > disconnect, i.e., not relying on anything but my
> > own brute force, and some
> > > hefty contacts to break the connection. And I want
> > this to be actuated by
> > > the clutch cable.
> > >
> > > A knife switch would be doable, but difficult to
> > isolate the clutch cable
> > > electrically. I could maybe set it up with some
> > Anderson connectors, and a
> > > mechanically actuated lever to pull them apart.
> > I'd need to multiply the
> > > motion, as the cable doesn't move much.
> > >
> > > The next best thing I was thinking would be to run
> > some extra wire, and
> > > place a big red button (BRB) somewhere near my
> > left hand. I need my right
> > > foot & hand free for the brakes at all times.
> > Something like this:
> > > http://www.evparts.com/prod-SW2514.htm
> > >
> > > Anyway, thanks for pointing that out to me.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Andrew in NM
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Michael Shipway
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Skype: mike.shipway
> > AIM: catbusmike
> > YIM: catbusmike
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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--
Michael Shipway
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype: mike.shipway
AIM: catbusmike
YIM: catbusmike
