Thanks, Norm.

As usual you come through with a thorough and concise answer!!

I haven't looked at the anchor set up since I brought the boat down from 
Marblehead last October and stayed at marina's for the evenings so I've never 
anchored out yet.

Honestly, I'm not even sure how much chain I've got, nor what type or size. I 
hope to get out to Oyster Bay this weekend and finish (actually start!) 
cleaning up everything so we're ready to rock & roll over Memorial Day weekend. 
I had half the boat torn apart over the winter (on the hard) to install new 
engine mounts, muffler hose, steering cables and autopilot arm, and of course, 
the new radar and chartplotter.  All the cabinetry and access panels are now 
back in place, the hull is compounded and waxed, and now comes the elbow grease 
down below....

If I get out to OB, one of the things at the very top of the to-do list is to 
(assuming zero wind at the mooring) activate the windless (it worked fine at 
the survey last September) and let out the entire rode to measure it and then 
put markers on the chain to tell me how much I've got out at any given time. I 
figure I can just let it out slowly and have it pile up on the bottom mud below 
the boat and measure off 10 or 20 foot increments to mark as it goes out.  Once 
I'm at the end then I should be able to retrieve it without hassles (the boat 
came with a washdown pump and hose in the anchor locker) and insure it runs 
smoothly down the pipe into the chain locker.

Friends of mine with the identical boat (and I've heard this from others) have 
had issues with the chain falling freely through the pipe into the locker. A 
design flaw on some model years of this model. The more recent boats in the 
production run solved the issue so I've got to go through the procedure to see 
whether mine is one of them. Otherwise I've got a wealth of articles and emails 
explaining how various owners solved the problem.


Steve Weinstein
S/V CAPTIVA
1997 Hunter 376, Hull #376
Sailing out of Oyster Bay, NY

All outgoing mail protected by VIPRE A/V


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: [email protected] 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 1:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] all chain rode with a windless



  Steve,

  In calm, stable, conditions we drop the anchor while backing dead slow.  When 
there is enough chain down we stop the chain with the clutch, quickly engage 
the pawl, then release the clutch again so all the strain is on the pawl.  When 
we expect more than mild pulls on the anchor we use a chain "grab" hook to 
attach a nylon pendant to the chain.  We have a short pendant, about six feet 
long to take ordinary stress off the windlass, that we use most of the time.   
It goes from a eye splice around a bow cleat, then through the bow fairllead 
with hose chafing gear where it goes through the fairlead.  Since it is above 
the waterline and is moved often we went with a stainless hook, shackle and 
thimble on the anchor chain end.  Do NOT mix stainless and galvanized ground 
tackle gear underwater!

  Bottoms where there is little current are usually "tender" mud bottoms (Fells 
Point (Baltimore), Gloucester, Oyster Bay) and we have to "work" the anchor in 
slowly.  We we set the anchor very gently at first, just backing enough to lift 
the chain but not actually pulling at first.  Over several pulls I increase the 
pulling force but almost never use full power which usually rips out the 
anchor.   Sand bottoms and hard bottoms kept scrubbed by strong currents 
(Hudson River) don't require this technique but hook firmly right away. 

  After we are satisfied that the anchor is set we hook the stainless fast-hook 
to the anchor chain then pull more chain out of the locker until the stainless 
hook takes all the strain and there is a loop of anchor chain hanging down 
about two feet below the stainless hook.  If we don't do this then the boat 
could swing and twist enough to pull on the anchor chain and drop the stainless 
hook off the chain.  I loosen the anchor clutch in this operation and leave the 
wildcat on its pawl when done.   Some would tighten the clutch to have it ready 
for instant use if the anchor needs to be hauled quickly, but I would rather 
have the pawl, rather than the hoisting mechanism, take the strain if the 
pendant should part because it is easier to repair.  I can tighten the clutch 
in seconds.

  We also have a long pendant, about 15 ft for backup and heavier loads.  Since 
its length puts the hook below water we used a galvanized hook, shackle and 
thimble.  This has rusted heavily and makes a mess on deck.   We probably 
should have gone with a just a length of nylon and a rolling hitch for this one.

  Although I have a swivel on my anchor, the Conventional Wisdom is that it is 
a weak point and should not be used.

  We have a tool consisting of a wood stick about four feet long with prongs we 
use to rotate the anchor when it is at the anchor chute so that it goes into 
the chute properly.  Perhaps when we take the swivel off we won't need it for 
that but still it is handy for getting weed off the anchor that will not wash 
off.

  We have a Johnson brand seawater washdown pump and hose to wash off the chain 
and anchor.  This a real necessity because the chain usually picks up a lot of 
mud.  It should be the type of pump with a pressure switch so the pump stops 
when you release the hose nozzle and stop the flow.



  Norm
  S/V Bandersnatch
  Lying Julington Creek
  30 07.695N 081 38.484W



    Okay, the season 'tis about to start and I'll probably be doing a bunch of 
anchoring with the new boat.

    This time around I'm blessed with a great electric windless and an all 
chain rode. This is a new set-up for me and I've got a concern about what to do 
once I get a good set on the hook.

    Every other boat I've had was a normal rope rode with about 8' of chain 
which was simply a question of tying off the line to a bow cleat once the hook 
was set.  With this new-to-me setup I recognize that 1) I obviously can't tie 
off the chain around a cleat, and 2) I've read plenty of horror stories of 
windlasses being torn off their mounting if the chain stays on the windless.

    So what's the procedure to "tie off" a chain rode?

    Any help is appreciated!

    Thanks,

    Steve



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