Captain Lee of TrueLoveboat,
Here is an external regulator for you Herr Kapitan.
 
http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/md2439.html
 
Actually this is the expensive $20 regulator with solid state electronics.
The cheap electromechanical one at $8 will probably work just as good. 
Do you want protection from overtemperature of the alternator?
Get a normally closed thermal switch from Norm, screw it on the alternator and 
have it open the field circuit.
You dont want it to shutoff, but work just like the Balmar?
Connect a resistor across the switch to reduce the field current in half.
At this point your $20 or $8 Mopar car regulator will be performing everyting 
that your $300 Balmar 
top of the line whizzbang marine regulator claims to perform.
 
Question : Why don't the car regulators limit the alternator output current?
Answer : Because it is not necessary.
If you pass 80Amperes through a discharged car battery its terminal voltage 
will quickly reach 14V 
and the current will not rise any higher. If you connect another discharged 
battery in parallel the 
current will increase and it may exceed the rating of the alternator get the 
alternator "toasty". 
If you connect a dosen discharged batteries in parallel, you have a boat and 
you will fry your 
alternator if you do not limit the current. 

Question : Why doesn't the $300 Balmar regulator limit the current?
Answer : Greed. The management at Balmar figured they can jack the price up on 
car regulators 
and sell them to boaters as "marine regulators". The idea worked. However, 
after the alternators started 
burning up they hired an engineer who introduced the alternator thermal 
protection by cutting the field 
current in half when the alternator got hot. The greedy crooks who run the 
company saw that 
alternators were not burning up anymore so they fired the engineer and hired a 
few "bitheads" to 
put a computer in the product and some silly numbers for the users to program 
the thing for 
different battery types.  Now that their POS product has a computer in it the 
greedy crooks figured 
they can sell it for $300 and the dumbass boaters will keep buying it. Which 
also proved to be true.
15X markup is pretty good eh? Hey pass the single malt, and let me adjust your 
AGM setting heh heh. 
The bithead surfer boy will be happy with his 3% raise and update the useless 
software every year. 
 
So there you are this is probably the success story of Balmar.
 
Do you want the ultimate marine regulator ?
Find an old power engineer with white hairs on his butt to build you a 
regulator that does the following :
1. Limit the alternator output current to the rating of the alternator, field 
adjustable to level you want. 
2. Reduce the alternator output current as required to remain below the rated 
max operating temperature.
3. Regulate the battery voltage at 14.8V until the current drops below XXAmps. 
(XX varies based on housebank A/H)
4. Regulate the battery voltage at 13.8V at 20C for FLA batteries. (Adjustable 
to accommodate other types)
5. Decrease the float voltage about 36mV per degreeC temperature rise over 20C
6. Increase the float voltage about 12mV per degreeC temperature drop below 20C
Hear him say you can return the product for a full refund less shipping if it 
does not perform as stated upon arrival.
Hear him say he will fix or replace the product free of charge except shipping 
if it ever fails during operation 
within absolute maximum rated conditions.
 
Cheers mate.
SV8827
Ahmet

 


From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 11:09:02 -0500
Subject: [Liveaboard] Recommendations re alternators






Ahmet,
 
Clearly you do not think that Balmar has good products.  What do you recommend 
instead?
 
Lee Huddleston
s/v Truelove
 
Lots to learn; nothing to prove.
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