Santiago is right.  Holly is softer than soft maple or cherry.

Tim

On Jul 3, 2009, at 10:28 AM, Santiago Ramos-Collado wrote:

Sirs, greetings. Wouldn't holly be sort of too soft wood for making
   pegs?
   --- El vie 3-jul-09, [email protected]
   <[email protected]> escribio:

     De: [email protected] <[email protected]>
     Asunto: [LUTE-BUILDER] Re: Holly [Ilex]
     A: [email protected]
     Fecha: viernes, 3 julio, 2009, 11:10 am

On Fri, Jul 3, 2009, Andrew Hartig <[1] [email protected]>
   said:

Has anyone on the list had much experience with Holly for peg wood?
I've just come into a few small log sections of Holly from a recently
felled tree;
   loverly.  short pieces will have about as much loss at the ends as
   longer
pieces do, percentage wise this means more loss to end- checking. Seal
   the
ends with paint or wax so that moisture goes out more slowly. Split
   into
   quarters if the grain allows that, if it is too inerlocked for
   splitting
   saw it on a bandsaw (make a carriage to grip from the ends and
   stabilise
it thru the band saw, if you dont want to work with a carriage, snap a
   chalk line for a guide).
Use scraps of the same wood wood for stickers, darker woods might leave
   a
stain; you might get away with dried maple or sycamore stickers. The point of a sticker is to space the wood while it dries so air can flow
   all
   round.  Stickers should support the whole stack of wood, align them
vertically to each other, use enough of them that no piece is likely to sag enough in drying to prevent you getting the intended yield. If the tree grew tall and straight you should be able to get some wood decent
   for
inlay or pegs. If it grew in an exposed position it may have a twisted
   trunk (which might show in the bark, and when you split it)
     revealed some hidden knots and other flaws
very common with all trees, less so when grown in crowded conditions
   like
   mature forest.
Unfortunatly for both of us, I have never had the opportunity to work
   with
green holly, so dont have the experience of how small to take it; too
   much
exposed side wood will speed the evaporation process to the point where
   internal stresses can cause harm.
You can monitor the WC periodically by microwaving small samples (weigh
   them before/after.
   Be sure you have ample air flow, also keep from direct sun; an open
   shed/leanto on the north side of a building, rafters of the garage,
   something like that.  I use shelving in my garage for the few small
   pieces
   of green willow, elm, yew, oak, and maple I have done.
   --
   Dana Emery
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