Question from a newbie with zero experience. Could one laboriously plane/ abrade the bridge off the soundboard? Chris
On 16 Jun 2012, at 03:51, Sterling <[email protected]> wrote: > Hi- from what you all are saying about this, it seems that it is probably > beyond my abilities to attempt this. I would certainly learn a lot from the > process but I really don't want to ruin this lute. I have already done a lot > to it like converting it from twelve to fourteen courses(with octaves). > Might I ask if there is someone on this list who would be willing to do the > bridge replacement on this lute? I could send it anywhere in the US... > Sterling > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 15, 2012, at 10:36 AM, "Ted Woodford" <[email protected]> wrote: > >> I'll add my two cents, though Richard provided a wealth of ideas. Planing >> down the existing bridge is an excellent tactic! I find aliphatic glues >> (white or yellow) actually easier to remove than hide glue. They often come >> loose without the addition of water. I put a several layers of aluminum foil >> over the top around the bridge for insulation when heating it. I use a >> regular household iron for that. >> >> It's possible to glue on the replacement bridge using hot hide glue and a >> rubbed joint. I believe many Spanish guitar makes have used this method. It >> takes advantage of the glues' tendency to contract and pull things together >> as dries. Basically one slides the two parts back and forth a couple of >> times while the glue is hot, creating a suction not unlike what happens if >> you rub two microscope slides together. The repairperson then holds it >> firmly in place until the glue has gelled. It takes a couple of minutes. >> >> If the seam is open it might be just as well to patch it with a spline of >> spruce while the bridge and strings are off. It's not likely to ever close >> by itself in the dry atmosphere of Utah! Richard's observations on humidity >> control are excellent. Fixing the open seam would seem prudent if you decide >> to separate the top from the bowl to apply clamps to the new bridge. There >> should be enough flex in the top that total separation from the bowl isn't >> strictly necessary. Freeing it up to the level of the third bar should leave >> an opening wide enough to get some lightweight deep throat clamps in there. >> >> The main thing is to map out the geometry before starting. What angle does >> the neck take relative to the face under string tension? Is there an >> appreciable bulging behind the bridge that disappears when the strings are >> slackened? Pay close attention to the height of the string holes over the >> soundboard while it is strung to pitch and use them as a guide for >> calculation. >> -Ted >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "sterling price" <[email protected]> >> To: <[email protected]> >> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2012 12:27 AM >> Subject: [LUTE-BUILDER] Archlute Bridge >> >> >>> Hi-I'm not sure if this list is still active so here goes---I have a >>> small archlute with a bridge that is made of ebony and I would like to >>> replace it with something more appropriate. Also because the string >>> spacing and action is all wrong. My question is--what is involved in >>> removing a bridge and replacing it without removing the soundboard? I >>> just need some advice on how to proceed, or if I should leave it alone. >>> >>> --Sterling >>> >>> -- >>> >>> >>> To get on or off this list see list information at >>> http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html >> >> > >
