Hi Herbert,

I have never heard of this problem on the 4th course with gut so I'll assume 
you use metal wound strings. I'll admit it's an assumption that could be false 
or you may be using a plastic of some sort. It would be helpful to know in any 
event.

Using a string made up of coils that are harder than the nut material could 
well have printed those coils on the groove of the nut, especially if you have 
used a high tension or the nut is old or of soft material or it has sat a long 
time at tension. The nut we use for gut wasn't imagined to work this way with 
metal coils. The lute was designed with a bone/ivory/wood nut that is harder 
than the gut string. The gut spreads out to the smooth nut surface under 
tension and at no point does it "dig in" (I'm not sure a plastic string spreads 
like this but I doubt it). Using gut (and a little beeswax now and then) I have 
no trouble adjusting the pitch - assuming the strings and frets are true. 

Citterns, orpharions and bandoras that use metal strings have the lesser bend 
like the guitars you mention. It solves the bend/tension problem for the 
materials given.

If you're inclined to use modern stringing and don't mind modern workarounds, 
you might consider a modern angle to accomodate it. Or maybe a steel nut ... 
and WD-40. It would be less colorful than 15 different loops of yarn though.

Sean


On Nov 11, 2014, at 12:46 AM, Herbert Ward wrote:


The bent-back pegbox means that a lute
has 7.5 times as much friction at
the nut as a guitar, taking angles of
10 degrees for the guitar and 80 for the 
lute.

For the strings attached to the farthest
pegs (say, the fourth course) this friction
causes trouble because the strings stick
at the nut during tuning.

Graphite lubrication never helped me much.
Nor did tugging at the string, though it
seems this should work when tuning downward.

To fix the problem, I tied a loop of ordinary
household twine around the string in the peg-
box, and MOVED IT AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO
THE NUT.

Now I adjust the peg, and
then give a momentary tug on the loop.  The
tug pulls the string almost completely away
from the nut, and thus equalizes the tension
along the entire length of the string.
In response, the pitch immediately and
reliably reflects the
slightest movement of the peg (in either
direction), as with a harp.

A side-benefit is that the peg stays pushed
in longer, since the peg is turned so little.

Of course, if you put loops on
multiple strings, then you have a mass of loops
from which it is difficult to find the one you 
need.  I've ordered a skein of multi-colored 
knitting yarn to see whether color-coding will 
reduce this problem.



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