"the change was trivial" I mean why it says needs to be tested. Adam left out one short trace, which I manually jumped on the first set I built and verified the rest was good. Then he added the missing trace, and I did verify the new board was still all good.
It was just this: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMZMD8kz4C3S8sXr35HTZTXaPb4cahgkyA0xO9hpFTbf6oHjrrbAcXX4sfb_JWsKw/photo/AF1QipNNiwNTpwzwZslHXUuEkTI3GR5zCYr6IN1oWybJ?key=dFpTU1lwMXBZeldMWkJsOWxRdUpPRVJyQXR1bjZR You can see that the current board has that trace. And here's a pic that shows it in real life. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMZMD8kz4C3S8sXr35HTZTXaPb4cahgkyA0xO9hpFTbf6oHjrrbAcXX4sfb_JWsKw/photo/AF1QipOulv75ECCPE1uH034RsKk7YS5nApQIFDKV8hsQ?key=dFpTU1lwMXBZeldMWkJsOWxRdUpPRVJyQXR1bjZR (I'm not Adam the guy who drew these up. I just worked with him testing and suggesting things.) On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 7:14 PM, Brian White <[email protected]> wrote: > It's good. The change was trivial anyway, but I did in fact order and > build it anyway just to go through the motions. > > Note however, this board is a little bit of a pain to build. > > * You have to sand the two long sides down a little to make the overall > width a little more narrow to fit in the M100 slot. > > * You have to chamfer the bottom edge of those same two sides, so that > when the board is dropped into the M100 socket, the PLCC socket doesn't > push the M100 pins away from contacting the board contacts. > > * You need to use flux, paste, and hot-air (or an oven or hot plate I > guess) to solder it. > > However, if you get past all that, then it's actually the best option vs > the SOIC board, because you don't need a soic test clip or a special > reverse-M100 programming adapter to re-write. Just pop the plcc out to > re-program it in a standard adapter that comes with your programmer. > > http://tandy.wiki/FigTronix > > https://goo.gl/photos/UYJohbg5qxcGu2KB9 > > You also need some 1/2" double-sided tape and 3/8 to 9/16 ribbon and some > cereal box paperboard to stick on the bottom. > I found both 1/2" double-sided tape and 9/16 ribbon at a local Target. > > You want specifically all solid/hard materials for the spacer on the > bottom, no foam tape or corrugated cardboard, nothing that compresses. > > -- > bkw > > > On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 5:11 PM, Kurt McCullum <[email protected]> > wrote: > >> Has anyone built this board. The link says that it needs to be re-tested. >> I just thought I’d ask before getting some. >> >> >> >> https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/m3Ugar47 >> >> >> >> Kurt >> > >
