Also note, this board uses 28F256 not 28C256 ! Different pinout! On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 7:21 PM, Brian White <[email protected]> wrote:
> "the change was trivial" I mean why it says needs to be tested. Adam left > out one short trace, which I manually jumped on the first set I built and > verified the rest was good. Then he added the missing trace, and I did > verify the new board was still all good. > > It was just this: > https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMZMD8kz4C3S8sXr35HTZTXaP > b4cahgkyA0xO9hpFTbf6oHjrrbAcXX4sfb_JWsKw/photo/ > AF1QipNNiwNTpwzwZslHXUuEkTI3GR5zCYr6IN1oWybJ?key= > dFpTU1lwMXBZeldMWkJsOWxRdUpPRVJyQXR1bjZR > > You can see that the current board has that trace. And here's a pic that > shows it in real life. > https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMZMD8kz4C3S8sXr35HTZTXaP > b4cahgkyA0xO9hpFTbf6oHjrrbAcXX4sfb_JWsKw/photo/ > AF1QipOulv75ECCPE1uH034RsKk7YS5nApQIFDKV8hsQ?key= > dFpTU1lwMXBZeldMWkJsOWxRdUpPRVJyQXR1bjZR > > (I'm not Adam the guy who drew these up. I just worked with him testing > and suggesting things.) > > > On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 7:14 PM, Brian White <[email protected]> wrote: > >> It's good. The change was trivial anyway, but I did in fact order and >> build it anyway just to go through the motions. >> >> Note however, this board is a little bit of a pain to build. >> >> * You have to sand the two long sides down a little to make the overall >> width a little more narrow to fit in the M100 slot. >> >> * You have to chamfer the bottom edge of those same two sides, so that >> when the board is dropped into the M100 socket, the PLCC socket doesn't >> push the M100 pins away from contacting the board contacts. >> >> * You need to use flux, paste, and hot-air (or an oven or hot plate I >> guess) to solder it. >> >> However, if you get past all that, then it's actually the best option vs >> the SOIC board, because you don't need a soic test clip or a special >> reverse-M100 programming adapter to re-write. Just pop the plcc out to >> re-program it in a standard adapter that comes with your programmer. >> >> http://tandy.wiki/FigTronix >> >> https://goo.gl/photos/UYJohbg5qxcGu2KB9 >> >> You also need some 1/2" double-sided tape and 3/8 to 9/16 ribbon and some >> cereal box paperboard to stick on the bottom. >> I found both 1/2" double-sided tape and 9/16 ribbon at a local Target. >> >> You want specifically all solid/hard materials for the spacer on the >> bottom, no foam tape or corrugated cardboard, nothing that compresses. >> >> -- >> bkw >> >> >> On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 5:11 PM, Kurt McCullum <[email protected]> >> wrote: >> >>> Has anyone built this board. The link says that it needs to be >>> re-tested. I just thought I’d ask before getting some. >>> >>> >>> >>> https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/m3Ugar47 >>> >>> >>> >>> Kurt >>> >> >> >
