Thanks. That’s actually a good thing since the 28F256 chips seem to be easier 
to source.

 

From: M100 [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brian White
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2017 4:30 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [M100] FigTronix Board

 

Also note, this board uses 28F256  not 28C256 ! Different pinout!

 

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 7:21 PM, Brian White <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

"the change was trivial" I mean why it says needs to be tested. Adam left out 
one short trace, which I manually jumped on the first set I built and verified 
the rest was good. Then he added the missing trace, and I did verify the new 
board was still all good.

It was just this: 

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMZMD8kz4C3S8sXr35HTZTXaPb4cahgkyA0xO9hpFTbf6oHjrrbAcXX4sfb_JWsKw/photo/AF1QipNNiwNTpwzwZslHXUuEkTI3GR5zCYr6IN1oWybJ?key=dFpTU1lwMXBZeldMWkJsOWxRdUpPRVJyQXR1bjZR

You can see that the current board has that trace. And here's a pic that shows 
it in real life.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMZMD8kz4C3S8sXr35HTZTXaPb4cahgkyA0xO9hpFTbf6oHjrrbAcXX4sfb_JWsKw/photo/AF1QipOulv75ECCPE1uH034RsKk7YS5nApQIFDKV8hsQ?key=dFpTU1lwMXBZeldMWkJsOWxRdUpPRVJyQXR1bjZR

(I'm not Adam the guy who drew these up. I just worked with him testing and 
suggesting things.)

 

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 7:14 PM, Brian White <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

It's good. The change was trivial anyway, but I did in fact order and build it 
anyway just to go through the motions.

Note however, this board is a little bit of a pain to build.

* You have to sand the two long sides down a little to make the overall width a 
little more narrow to fit in the M100 slot.

* You have to chamfer the bottom edge of those same two sides, so that when the 
board is dropped into the M100 socket, the PLCC socket doesn't push the M100 
pins away from contacting the board contacts.

* You need to use flux, paste, and hot-air (or an oven or hot plate I guess) to 
solder it.

However, if you get past all that, then it's actually the best option vs the 
SOIC board, because you don't need a soic test clip or a special reverse-M100 
programming adapter to re-write. Just pop the plcc out to re-program it in a 
standard adapter that comes with your programmer.

http://tandy.wiki/FigTronix

https://goo.gl/photos/UYJohbg5qxcGu2KB9

You also need some 1/2" double-sided tape and 3/8 to 9/16 ribbon and some 
cereal box paperboard to stick on the bottom.
I found both 1/2" double-sided tape and 9/16 ribbon at a local Target.

You want specifically all solid/hard materials for the spacer on the bottom, no 
foam tape or corrugated cardboard, nothing that compresses.

-- 

bkw

 

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 5:11 PM, Kurt McCullum <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

Has anyone built this board. The link says that it needs to be re-tested. I 
just thought I’d ask before getting some.

 

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/m3Ugar47

 

Kurt

 

 

 

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