Early results for the new chamfer polarity pcb and carrier.

There are a few things I need to adjust from here to get it as good as it can be, but, I just got the pcbs that match two earlier carriers (one with chamfer, one with a pin, but without the notches in the corners), and they already prove out a few of the things I wasn't sure about.

There's some new pics added to the bottom of this album.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zynHU4LSpd5BZBYC9

Specifically:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wgwpDoLmUk5npqHb6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1XRMmWijtPeiVrYM8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JponommBdc6Dx93T9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HUouhuZSJ5odtf4Z9

This pcb ends up proving not only the design if the fab produces it perfectly, but also the result when oshpark produces a slightly sloppy version. Both the solder mask and the router path are out of alignment on this batch. Drills are slightly off too. And, it still works, so, good!

Happily the new shallower edge contacts still came out ok even though the router ended up cutting too far in on one side, and too far out on the other side. I was worried about exactly that.

One thing I have to tweak is I have to back the solder mask a little further away from the edges of the drill holes on the edge contacts and the jtag and power pin holes. Ideally there is no reason for the top or bottom pads or annular rings to be exposed on any of those, just the vertical walls on the edges and inside the holes, and I would like the top & bottom surfaces to be covered. But if you let the solder mask get too close to the actual edge of the hole, it ends up going down inside the hole and putting varnish on what you wanted to be a clean electrical contact surface. Even worse if the mask is also out of alignment.

This shows it clearly.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7MDvhFCffRVPPYsS6

Otherwise I really like how the edge contacts came out. They're everything I was hoping for in terms of optimizing to consume the least amount of pcb real-estate, and making a flatter contact surface for the socket pin to touch right in the middle, as similar to a flat chip leg as we can get with a round hole, while still mechanically sound enough to survive the end mill. That is thanks to using the rectangular pad shape. The corners of the rectangular pad provide anchoring, which allows the straight lines to come in right up to the edge of the hole, where normally you need to leave a pretty good lip all around the hole.

I would really prefer a little better polarity enforcement. The pin is really good on that point. It stands out and is both unmistakable visually, and unforceable mechanically.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jxJSohH4htAMZHpY7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bU9ES9h62Ju7nJge7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aACmi4ZzkRyiUFFu9
At least this updated pin version makes the hole smaller than my earlier version (smaller than these pics. this "c9" pcb is old and the hole can be smaller than it is here.) and by having the hole instead of the chamfer, it allows all 4 corners to be full. The outer shape of the pcb is a plain rectangle with no funny notches or anything, and if you wanted a component or a wire pad tucked right into a corner you can have it. And even the hole doesn't get it the way of top-side components too much. A chip or other larger component is free to span right over the top of it. I think I could even position the LP2980 exactly over top of the new smaller hole.

The chamfer version, the chamfer just isn't very big, and can't really get any bigger because then you eat into the pin1 edge contact. But, it's good enough I guess. Here is the worst example I was able to make by trying to put the pcb in the wrong way on purpose. Worst meaning, the most successful attempt to do it wrong. I can almost successfully jam it in this way, but, only almost. So, ok. Getting rid of those notches in the corners and the hole in the middle is pretty valuable and I guess worth it. This way the pcb ends up having more usable real-estate and is just simpler to make. Like, you don't need to actually use my template kicad file to start with. All you need is the simple dimensions.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/AQ7tut5rHz8pLBts9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JsNTD6U11mzja7J97

Other times when I didn't try so hard to get it wrong on purpose just to test the worst case scenario, it was pretty obviously wrong.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HhEdPCDPbMcLfup16

All in all, I think the advantages of the chamfer board outweigh the disadvantages so I'm switching over to use it for everything, not just as a special alternative option. It's valuable to have a single design that all pcbs use, so that the parts can all swap. Like a seller, or just an individual, could order a bunch of carriers and not have to care if they were going to make more rexs or more teeproms or whatever other new boards come along.

Also, holy cow that Sculpteo 60um service is remarkable! (this is a different version I ordered a week or more ago that just came in)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jKbdbJVe9PRFeT8Z8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/19c8tLpV999i2Z1G8

The Shapeways parts are already proven to work just fine though, so, the extra cost and extra accuracy from the 60um option isn't necessary. But dang it's pretty cool.

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bkw

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