On 6/4/20 6:04 PM, John R. Hogerhuis wrote:
On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 1:49 PM Brian K. White <b.kenyo...@gmail.com
<mailto:b.kenyo...@gmail.com>> wrote:
On 6/4/20 4:32 PM, John R. Hogerhuis wrote:
I have posted links 3 such cables many times.
And an ideal usb adapter to screw right on to it.
http://tandy.wiki/Model_100_102_200_600_Serial_Cable
Any of those "ideal" 3 cables is exactly the fully wired all in one
piece cable.
For the usb, I personally like to keep that separate because it's
useful
for other stuff on it's own.
Thanks.
I would suggest that the thin hood male-male gender changer should be
kept as a separate piece because then the cable itself is more durable.
No pins to break on the main cable.
If a pin bends/breaks on the gender changer (it has happened to me) I
just throw away the gender changer.
The cables I use are the old Belkin serial laplink which has db-9 and
db-25 female both on both ends of the cable. Never had any failure. But
they are not on the market any more. That is my ideal.
If building from scratch I would just put the USB-Serial adapter into
the cable.
But separate works too.
You and I will mix and match parts and know what makes sense but a lot
of users don't get into the details.
-- John.
Apparently being forced to stay home with nothing to do for months on
end... is still not enough for me to get around to creating a few little
graphic diagrams to replace my cryptic notation to show how each cable
is wired exactly.
But the info is actually there. Basically, they show how the cable
deviates from the platonic ideal rs232, by signal name, leaving pin
numbers and the physical locations of those pin numbers on male vs
female, 9 vs 25 pin, to get from standard references.
--
bkw
