Hello again — cool, thanks! And a very good tip about ensuring the lamps fit in 
whatever rig I setup, that’s a good consideration for sure.

Multitasking got the better of me as I was replying… the ones I was eyeing are 
60W (not 50W, sorry) but should work. And yep, I’m in Michigan where it’s 
currently a balmy 37 degrees so perhaps every watt counts!  ;-)

Cheers and again, thanks,
SB

--
Greetings from Steve Baker
“Gravity brings me down…”



> On Jan 4, 2021, at 12:07 PM, Scott McDonnell <mcdonnell.j...@comcast.net> 
> wrote:
> 
> Those are not the exact models that I bought.
>  
> I just went back through my Amazon order history and what I bought was 
> actually two 10W lamps. There was no concern about power. I just bought 
> whatever was the cheapest. 50W is fine and would likely work much faster. I 
> do my retrobrighting in the garage which gets well over 120 degrees in the 
> summer here in Florida. These lamps are not going to reach those temps, so I 
> wouldn’t worry about it.
>  
> So, in short, go with the 50W if you can afford it. I wasn’t sure the UV LEDs 
> would even work so I didn’t want to invest much in the experiment. I should 
> probably upgrade mine as well.
>  
> If you are going to use an inverted milk crate (plastic ones I bought at 
> Walmart for a couple bucks) the only consideration really is the size of the 
> lamps. I have mine just hanging from the top, but it would probably be better 
> to mount them in the corners to get some light on the sides.
>  
> When I have done parts that were a bit bigger or too deep, I prop the 
> milkcrate up on 2x4s.
>  
> I will take a picture later if the description sounds confusing. I really 
> need to revisit it, honestly and find something a little bigger than a milk 
> crate. 
>  
> Scott M.
>  
> From: Steve Baker <mailto:stevebake...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 4, 2021 11:57 AM
> To: m...@bitchin100.com <mailto:m...@bitchin100.com>
> Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do?
>  
> Greetings Scott — thanks for sharing, this is really helpful!
>  
> Just curious about the 30W choice for the UV setup; I see they offer a 50W 
> pair for $10 more and was wondering if the extra power would be too much? 
> Perhaps there’s a risk of overheating and that’s why 30W is recommended?
>  
> (Put another way, I’m looking to setup a rig like this in the next month or 
> so and wondered if 50W would damage the cases… just thought I’d check with 
> you to see if 30W was the correct way to go or if 50W would be fine too, etc.)
>  
> Again, thanks!
> SB
>  
> 
> --
> Greetings from Steve Baker
> “Gravity brings me down…”
>  
>  
> 
> 
> On Jan 4, 2021, at 11:32 AM, Scott McDonnell <mcdonnell.j...@comcast.net 
> <mailto:mcdonnell.j...@comcast.net>> wrote:
>  
> My UV set up is something like these:
> https://www.amazon.com/Onforu-Waterproof-Blacklight-Lighting-Fluorescent/dp/B07GGV5B7R
>  
> <https://www.amazon.com/Onforu-Waterproof-Blacklight-Lighting-Fluorescent/dp/B07GGV5B7R>
>  
> Two of those zip=tied to the bottom of an inverted milk crate. I place my 
> part to retrobright on a piece of wood and then set this lamp assembly over 
> it. The UV light is not very powerful, so it usually takes days to work. But 
> I have been using it for various projects for over a year now.
>  
> Scott M.
>  
> From: Jeffrey Birt <mailto:bir...@soigeneris.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 4, 2021 8:44 AM
> To: m...@bitchin100.com <mailto:m...@bitchin100.com>
> Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do?
>  
> Both heat and UV add energy which will speed up a chemical reaction. The UV 
> could have other effects as well. IMHO, heat is probably the easiest to 
> control even if it might take longer.
>  
> Jeff Birt
>  
> From: M100 <m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com 
> <mailto:m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com>> On Behalf Of Scott McDonnell
> Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2021 8:34 PM
> To: m...@bitchin100.com <mailto:m...@bitchin100.com>
> Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do?
>  
> Yeah, the saran wrap has helped a lot. It keeps it from getting dry.
>  
> I think heat has a much bigger part in the process than UV light. I will 
> sometimes go out periodically and use a hair dryer to help speed up the 
> process.
>  
> If you think about it, the developer is used on hair and they use heat, not 
> UV to make the bleach process happen.

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