Very nice!
On Sun, Dec 11, 2022 at 7:54 PM Spencer <spencer...@yahoo.com> wrote: > I'm pleased. I finished it about 15 mins ago. > > The USB can provide up to the voltage of the PS (17.8VDC), and that > voltmeter uses the power from the PS terminals in the box, but the larger > meter doesn't do it that. It was an $8.00 meter I had to build and its > design requires an external battery source, so I just added a battery > holder on the back. The smaller meter was $54.00 (and too high!!!) with no > light and for that much money. > > It was a lot of fun, and you and Brian made it easier and educational, and > I really appreciate you two taking the time to suggest and guide. > > I've attached two pics showing testing with both the banana plugs and USB > port hooked to a handheld meter. > > Spencer > > > > > On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 03:47:03 PM EST, Mike Stein < > mhs.st...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Excellent! Nothing more satisfying than a job well done. > > Just curious: if you have a fixed 5V for the USB port, why do you have to > power the meter from a battery? > > m > > On Sun, Dec 11, 2022 at 11:52 AM Spencer <spencer...@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Works great!! I'm tickled. I did it exactly the way you recommended. It > looks great too! I'll get the USB port today and install it. I'll send a > pic of the finished product. Words can't express enough gratitude for your > help! > > Spencer > > On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 06:11:33 AM EST, Brian K. White < > b.kenyo...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Ok the pins are probably like this: > http://switches-connectors-custom.cwind.com/Asset/GRB293B01BR.pdf > The top-right corner shows the wiring for oins 1,2,3, and further down > on the right shows where 1, 2, & 3 are physically. And the pics from the > ebay listing also show pin number 1,2,3 in order like that (They aren't > always, I almost posted a link to an identical looking switch that had > the center pin numbered 1, but still had the same physical arrangement.) > > And it looks like the light probably takes 120vac. > > Which means hook the incoming hot to pin 1 (silver not in the center) > load to pin 2 (silver in the center) > neutral to pin 3 (the brass one) > neutral also to the other side of the load. > > When you open the switch, neither the load nor the light gets power. > When you close the switch, both the load and the light gets power. > > Which I believe is more or less what you guessed in the first place when > you said ground to the brass one. Except in this case there is no ground > and not even any consistent neutral, and you don't want to treat > anything as actually gnd or neutral. > > Without a polarized plug, you're just picking one of the two wires at > random and calling it "hot" and calling the other "neutral", but in this > case they are just labels to keep track of them, the "neutral" isn't > really neutral. You can't tie either wire to gnd or to the chassis > anywhere (if there is any chassis or metal case), and the chassis must > be fully insulated. Both wires are treated as hot in that sense. > > Personally I just would not use a non-polarized plug. I'd get a new > normal cord and the white wire is neutral and the black wire is hot. > > -- > bkw > > On 12/9/22 15:04, Spencer wrote: > > Hello Brian. > > > > It's a SPST 3 position switch. Link ==> 10x SPST Red Neon Light On/Off > > Round Rocker Switch 6A/250V 10A/125V AC | eBay > > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/274361807522> > > > > > Been busy - darn gum surgery. Not fun ;-( > > > > > > On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 07:16:09 PM EST, Brian K. White > > <b.kenyo...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > If the plug is not polarized then there is no hot or neutral. > > > > One wire IS hot (swings from -120v to +120v relative to GND). > > And one wire IS neutral (stays at 0v relative to GND). > > > > Relative to each other, it's the same 120vac either direction, or > > rather, there is no such thing as a direction. > > > > But if the plug is not polarized then you have to treat both wires as > > equally hot, since every time it's plugged in either side could be the > > hot side that time, at random. > > > > Switches come in all kinds of arrangements, so the only way to know how > > to wire this particular switch is to test it with a continuity tester > > and observe what connections it makes in each position, or consult it's > > datasheet. Sometimes there is a diagram of the connections drawn right > > on the body, otherwise google it's model number or find the datasheet > > from the website where you got it or perhaps it's packaging. > > > > A rocker with 3 pins and 2 positions (you didn't say how many positions > > btw so I'm assuming) is fairly likely to be a center-common SPDT on-on, > > hopefully non-shorting (break-before-make). Meaning the center pin is > > connected to either one side or the other at any given time. When you're > > turning one pin off, you're also turning the other pin on at the same > > time. In this case since yoiu only care about turning something on/off, > > you would just use the common pin and either one of the others. You just > > run your hot wire from the wall to the center pin and connect the load > > to either of the other pins, either one, doesn't matter, but only one, > > and leave the other pin unconnected. (might want to cover it with > > heat-shrink) > > > > Except that is just one common configuration and might not be right for > > your switch. > > > > Really the switch could be totally different. It might have 3 positions > > and be on-off-on, or the common pin might not be the center pin, or it > > could be a lighted switch where only 2 pins are for switching and the > > 3rd pin is to power the light, and that light may also possibly not take > > the same voltage as what's passing through the main pins. > > > > Even a lighted switch where at least one of the pins is definitely > > special and different, still doesn't necessarily have a right way to > > wire it, since it's still up to you to decide when you want the light to > > be on. Usually you want the light to reflect the power state, on when > > the device is turned on. Or maybe you want the light to be a pilot light > > that is on at all times so that you can find it in the dark, or so that > > it indicates when power is available to the device rather than > > indicating when the device is turned on. > > > > There is unlikely to be a particular pin for GND. It's possible if the > > switch has a metal body, or for example light switches in walls, or if > > it has a light it might have a specific gnd pin, but generally there is > > no such thing as a gnd pin on a switch, they are just contacts which you > > connect to whatever your application requires. The closest thing to a > > right or wrong is a general rule that for a mains power switch would be > > to switch the hot side rather than the neutral side, simply so that when > > it's in the off position, the least amount of things are hot. > > > > But since you have a non-polarized plug, both wires are equally likely > > to be hot at any given time, and so you just pick either one for the > > switch, and treat the entire inside of the box as hot, and make sure the > > whole box is well sealed and insulated, and users are well protected > > from the internals. Or better, get rid of the non-polarized plug and use > > a polarized one, and then you have an actual hot side to treat as the > > hot side. > > > > -- > > bkw > > > > On 12/5/22 21:52, Spencer wrote: > > > Hello > > > > > > Got a wiring question. > > > > > > I built a simple 18VDC PS from JameCo and I put it in a project box. > > > I've added two pots for adjusting power, banana plugs for external > > > power, two mini voltmeters and will add a USB port for 5VDC. All this > > > works but now I want to add a AC rocker. The above was simple except > > > for the meticulous care that's needed to drill into a metal box. Now > the > > > next item I want to add is an AC rocker switch but I'm a bit unsure > how. > > > It's a 3 terminal AC rocker, and my understanding is the bronze > terminal > > > is ground, the center is the power source, and the 3rd one is > > > accessory/load. What confuses me is the proper way to wire it. If the > > > plug was polarized I wouldn't be confused. I've attached a photo of > the > > > back of the PS which shows the two power supply wires (one with > writing > > > and the other none). The videos I've seen doesn't explain which is > > > power/live and which is ground using this type of wire. The plug isn't > > > polarized so it's not easy for me to determine + from -. I put a > meter > > > to the wires inside the PS and it shows 119 and if I switch the probes > > > it still shows 119. What I was expecting was to see -119 when the > probes > > > were wrong and this would've told me which is + and - but it didn't. > So > > > which wire goes to the power source terminal and which wire goes to > the > > > ground terminal? Do I simply wire it by wiring together the wires with > > > writing and the wires without writing? I hope I've made sense. > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > bkw > > > > > > -- > bkw > >
