we run similar settings on the front end as you do.
-3.0 deg camber each side
+3 or 5 deg castor (can't remeber)
1mm toe in.
The rear has twin sway bars with a little toe in to correct over steer. It
goes very hard into corners but tends to under steer a little and then over
steer but the diff is open so usually just spins the inside wheel which
sucks big time. I have been sliding the car
up on to the outter ripple strips to help exit corners which will do till we
do some thing
about an LSD as the old man doesn't like lockers.
running yokie 008rs the under steer was a bit excessive at winton.
wacked on a set of brigstone GRB's and helped a lot. The under steer
is hold me back a little in my entry speed as i think more negitave
camber would help. I've heard of people running -5 deg each side.
Any way its all good fun no matter how fast ya going.
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pooley, Trevor
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 3:50 PM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: Camber
Just some general comments on my suspension and how it performs.
My 1600 suspension setup:
2.8 deg neg camber, 3.6 deg pos caster and 3 mm toe in.
Monroe GT gas shocks all round.
Std 240K front struts and springs.
Rear springs are Lovells of unknown specs but not lowered by more that an
inch and stiffer.
Bigger front sway bar 22mm? and nolathane.
LJ torana radius rods
Datrally lower control arms.
How it goes:
Fairly hard springs for everyday driving but not unacceptable.
The adjustable datrally lower control arms are wound right out which makes
the front track wider and could be a problem on non flared guards. I think
these could be improved for eaiser adjustment. Also due to the cars +ve
caster the way the bushes on the engine crossmember are mounted don't look
to good either. I personally don't like the the Whiteline Lower control
arms. I would like to see some comparison strength testing data.
Radius rods need extened threading to allow for more castor than I have.
These could be a but of a worry as I've heard of them breaking.
Body roll is at a minimum on the road, but noticeable on the track. Rear
sway bar would be good for the track as it still understeer in some
situations.
On fast corners I think 3mm of toe in is maybe a little excessive. The car
tends to dig in on the outside front wheel and oversteer a little. I will
try 2mm of toe in soon.
Trev
> Michael Harding wrote:
>
> > Zac
> > I have lengthened lower control arms to on both my cars (1600 street car
and
> > stanza rally car )and they work very well (not sure if they are legal
though)
>
> Mick,
> That's legal if done right. Whiteline used to (still?) sell a shimmed
adjustable
> lca. Some of the stuff used in the US appeals to me as a bit better
engineered,
> but the whiteline style is a Nismo copy from the 510/610/710 wrc cars.
>
> terry
>
> >
> > Mick
> >
> > Zac Campbell wrote:
> >
> > > I love the no bodyroll feel and another 1/2 inch lowering is out of
> > > question. So I've got to consider the offset strut tops. I've also
heard the
> > > same (negative) thing about the rear bars.
> > >
> > > The current setup saves me hurtling sideways out of corners which I
like,
> > > but the understeer does make the car feel a bit slower in the corners.
> > >
> > > Have any other listers had any experience with offset strut tops?
> > > Hard to get, install, expensive?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance!
> > >
> > > zac
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Derek Franklin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 4:01 PM
> > > Subject: RE: Welded diff.
> > >
> > > > Zac,
> > > >
> > > > adding 0.5 degrees -ve to each front leg ( offset strut tops and
1/2" more
> > > lowering
> > > > ) helped reduce the chronic understeer in the wagon, but changing
the
> > > swaybar
> > > > from the 22mm aftermarket one to a 19mm standard job ( with
nolathane
> > > bushes
> > > > ) was a bigger bonus. More bodyroll but it feels much nicer and
doesn't
> > > kill
> > > > the outside edge of the tyres any more.
> > > >
> > > > If you haven't got one, a rear swaybar will definitely reduce
understeer,
> > > and
> > > > an adjustable one will allow you to keep the big front bar and dial
in
> > > your
> > > > under/oversteer to a certain extent.
> > > > Just watch for the rear wheels deciding they want to lead out of
corners
> > > :)
> > > >
> > > > Having said that, my sedan's not on the road yet so I can't speak
from
> > > experience,
> > > > and there's a number of listers who reckon a rear bar is bad news on
a
> > > 510,
> > > > especially on rough roads. Statesiders seem to like 'em though.
> > > >
> > > > D ( all info, no advice - again )F
> > > >
> > > > >Get some negative camber (not too much) happening on that front end
and
> > > your
> > > >
> > > > >understeering days will be over.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
-=-=-=-=-=-==-=-=-=-
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 14:02:43 +1000
From: "CP" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
----------------------------------------
Rear sway bars are good on 1600 if its race only and real stiff. We run twin
rear sway bars and the arse end behaves rather well. The front it pretty
soild as well. My 1200 ute has negitve camber but i need alot more (even on
the street)..
--membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
No unauthorised redistribution of this email
http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/index.htm
http://www.datascribe.com.au/ozdatonline/listindex.html
---------------------------------------------------------------------
