ahh no strictly track car only
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Peter Parry
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 9:06 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Camber
Chris are those street settings???
Peter
Chris (CP) wrote:
> we run similar settings on the front end as you do.
> -3.0 deg camber each side
> +3 or 5 deg castor (can't remeber)
> 1mm toe in.
>
> The rear has twin sway bars with a little toe in to correct over steer. It
> goes very hard into corners but tends to under steer a little and then
over
> steer but the diff is open so usually just spins the inside wheel which
> sucks big time. I have been sliding the car
> up on to the outter ripple strips to help exit corners which will do till
we
> do some thing
> about an LSD as the old man doesn't like lockers.
>
> running yokie 008rs the under steer was a bit excessive at winton.
> wacked on a set of brigstone GRB's and helped a lot. The under steer
> is hold me back a little in my entry speed as i think more negitave
> camber would help. I've heard of people running -5 deg each side.
>
> Any way its all good fun no matter how fast ya going.
> chris
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pooley, Trevor
> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 3:50 PM
> To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> Subject: Camber
>
> Just some general comments on my suspension and how it performs.
>
> My 1600 suspension setup:
> 2.8 deg neg camber, 3.6 deg pos caster and 3 mm toe in.
> Monroe GT gas shocks all round.
> Std 240K front struts and springs.
> Rear springs are Lovells of unknown specs but not lowered by more that an
> inch and stiffer.
> Bigger front sway bar 22mm? and nolathane.
> LJ torana radius rods
> Datrally lower control arms.
>
> How it goes:
> Fairly hard springs for everyday driving but not unacceptable.
> The adjustable datrally lower control arms are wound right out which makes
> the front track wider and could be a problem on non flared guards. I think
> these could be improved for eaiser adjustment. Also due to the cars +ve
> caster the way the bushes on the engine crossmember are mounted don't look
> to good either. I personally don't like the the Whiteline Lower control
> arms. I would like to see some comparison strength testing data.
> Radius rods need extened threading to allow for more castor than I have.
> These could be a but of a worry as I've heard of them breaking.
> Body roll is at a minimum on the road, but noticeable on the track. Rear
> sway bar would be good for the track as it still understeer in some
> situations.
> On fast corners I think 3mm of toe in is maybe a little excessive. The car
> tends to dig in on the outside front wheel and oversteer a little. I will
> try 2mm of toe in soon.
>
> Trev
>
> > Michael Harding wrote:
> >
> > > Zac
> > > I have lengthened lower control arms to on both my cars (1600 street
car
> and
> > > stanza rally car )and they work very well (not sure if they are legal
> though)
> >
> > Mick,
> > That's legal if done right. Whiteline used to (still?) sell a shimmed
> adjustable
> > lca. Some of the stuff used in the US appeals to me as a bit better
> engineered,
> > but the whiteline style is a Nismo copy from the 510/610/710 wrc cars.
> >
> > terry
> >
> > >
> > > Mick
> > >
> > > Zac Campbell wrote:
> > >
> > > > I love the no bodyroll feel and another 1/2 inch lowering is out of
> > > > question. So I've got to consider the offset strut tops. I've also
> heard the
> > > > same (negative) thing about the rear bars.
> > > >
> > > > The current setup saves me hurtling sideways out of corners which I
> like,
> > > > but the understeer does make the car feel a bit slower in the
corners.
> > > >
> > > > Have any other listers had any experience with offset strut tops?
> > > > Hard to get, install, expensive?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance!
> > > >
> > > > zac
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Derek Franklin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 4:01 PM
> > > > Subject: RE: Welded diff.
> > > >
> > > > > Zac,
> > > > >
> > > > > adding 0.5 degrees -ve to each front leg ( offset strut tops and
> 1/2" more
> > > > lowering
> > > > > ) helped reduce the chronic understeer in the wagon, but changing
> the
> > > > swaybar
> > > > > from the 22mm aftermarket one to a 19mm standard job ( with
> nolathane
> > > > bushes
> > > > > ) was a bigger bonus. More bodyroll but it feels much nicer and
> doesn't
> > > > kill
> > > > > the outside edge of the tyres any more.
> > > > >
> > > > > If you haven't got one, a rear swaybar will definitely reduce
> understeer,
> > > > and
> > > > > an adjustable one will allow you to keep the big front bar and
dial
> in
> > > > your
> > > > > under/oversteer to a certain extent.
> > > > > Just watch for the rear wheels deciding they want to lead out of
> corners
> > > > :)
> > > > >
> > > > > Having said that, my sedan's not on the road yet so I can't speak
> from
> > > > experience,
> > > > > and there's a number of listers who reckon a rear bar is bad news
on
> a
> > > > 510,
> > > > > especially on rough roads. Statesiders seem to like 'em though.
> > > > >
> > > > > D ( all info, no advice - again )F
> > > > >
> > > > > >Get some negative camber (not too much) happening on that front
end
> and
> > > > your
> > > > >
> > > > > >understeering days will be over.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
> -=-=-=-=-=-==-=-=-=-
>
> Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2000 14:02:43 +1000
> From: "CP" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> ----------------------------------------
> Rear sway bars are good on 1600 if its race only and real stiff. We run
twin
> rear sway bars and the arse end behaves rather well. The front it pretty
> soild as well. My 1200 ute has negitve camber but i need alot more (even
on
> the street)..
>
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