I would like to defer to Gary's comments here and also add some ideas.
I would like to think in terms of --stages of build. Or levels.
The 1st level up from stock suspension might involve bolt on stuff like
stiffer cartridge insert shocks, higher poundage shorter springs, larger
swaybars, simple adjustability for camber such as slotting at the rear, some
instances of hard poly bushings like at the T/C arm, and lower control arm.
The 2nd level could involve some metal fabrication such as re-invorcements
at the subframe around the steering box, mods to the rear subframe to create
the now famous "penultimate rear crossmember", hard bushings at the rear
arms. At the front, where more options exist, choices could include
coil-over struts and springs with camber plates, larger brakes, adjustable
length lower control arms (optional), T/C bearing (hard).
Level 3
Level 4
Where I'm going with this, I think is that I find it helpful to put things
in categories. Wouldn't it be useful to make available to anyone who wants
to build a 510, various recipes for different stages of build. Post these "
stages " at a site on the web where everyone goes. Then questions regarding
the typical suspension mods can be steered to the recipe page. Further
questions and answers would be for clarification.
I should think that after 30 plus years of existence, most of what needs to
be known about these cars is already known by "somebody". What would help
would be for a single source of info listing --all-- the various
possibilities in a clear manner that anyone can make use of.
Steve Clarke
1970 Dime
1960 Mini
http://www.teleport.com/~sclarke
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Savage <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: X member slotting
> Chris Halpin wrote:
>
> > It sounds like a simple enough idea, but I was just wondering do the
bolts
> > holding the arms to the XMember ever want to move around in their
> > now-much-bigger holes? What sort of torque do you put on the bolts to
stop
> > any unwanted movement?
>
> That is the problem. Once slotted, you will not want to run poly bushings
in
> the rear control arms, as the misalignment caused by the slotting will eat
the
> bushings and cause them to bind. You can't torque the bolts enough to
hold
> them in place. Once aligned, drive slowly to a shop and have the washer
tack
> welded. Slotting is not the real answer, thus the creation of the
penultimate
> crossmember, but if you slot and weld using stock rubber bushings, it will
> work.
>
> --
> Gary Savage - Racing in Memory of Swede & Shelly
> Eugene,Oregon
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Check out our Team AAR 'Cuda stuff at:
> http://www.aarcuda.com/merchandise.html
>
>
>
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