Chris,
"so your not a big fan or rear discs??? I just hate fixing drums so I figure
for the same price disc were an easy neat option....."
Are you kidding, I'm a rear disc fanatic on a 510, no more drums for me if I
can help it.
I couldn't see what I said to give you the impression that I was not a rear
disc fan. I sent the second post as I didn't answer your question directly
the first time that was specific to R31 discs - I only mentioned disc/drums
so I thought you may have misinterpreted what I said about cylinder and prop
valves etc.
I hope I haven't confused you further, if so drop a line direct and I'll try
to sort it out.
terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Sunday, 25 June 2000 3:18 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 240K
thanks again. YEah i was just wondering about inserts. I want to lower the
car a little but not a lot so i dont wanna stuff up new inserts. I was
thinking about getting shorter inserts and modifing the strut but time and
money are against me. I think pedders will do...
so your not a big fan or rear discs??? I just hate fixing drums so i figure
for the same price disc were an easy neat option.....
the cars getting there slowly...I hope i get it on the road for the SA meet
in oct.
Talk to you later
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 'Ozdat' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 11:13 PM
Subject: RE: 240K
> Chris,
> I just re-read my reply to you and noticed that I didn't specifically
answer
> your question in relation to the R31 rear discs, so I've written a bit
more
> to clarify that angle.
>
> As you have decided the 3/4" master cylinder is the one for you, then the
> boosted option will still hold as I wrote earlier. I have found that the
R31
> rear discs behave in a 510 brake system just about the same as the drums
> that they replaced did. The grey area is whether or not you need a
> proportioning valve with the Tokico/Nabco dual cylinder. I have found that
> you may not as I removed mine when I recently recoed the master cylinder
and
> I fitted my spare cylinder without the valve.
>
> On another note there was a third master cylinder used as a dealer
> replacement part in the 180B SSS that was made by Sanyco - I think these
> should work OK in a 510, but I've only ever had a clutch m/cyl made by
them
> and it was good.
>
> When you find a 180B with the Japanese cylinders try to get all of the
> lines, the prop valve and the line insulators (little plastic thingies
that
> bolt to the body but can be a bit trick to get off the donor) as they make
> for a neat job on a 510. Another line that is a good idea to get is the
one
> from the prop valve to the driver's side calliper as it saves making one
up
> if you are converting from a single master cylinder.
>
> On the question about inserts - Pedders products imho are very good value
> for money, there are better ones around but at a much higher price. My
> minimum standard for inserts would be Munroe GT Gas (sensatrack don't work
> very well on a small car). For the top line stuff I'm a Koni person as
I've
> had bad experiences with Tokico that are the same price and I've always
> stuffed them in half the work as Koni.
>
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c_peters [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Saturday, 24 June 2000 9:15 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: 240K
>
>
> thanks terry,
>
> I will find my self a 3/4 and a booster
>
> >===== Original Message From "Terry & Heather" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=====
> >Chris,
> >Which master cylinder? I would say my recommendations (and that's all
this
> >is) depends on a few other parts that you are using or intend to use.
> >
> >If you use a booster: (my preference for street)
> >Use a 180(610) Japanese Nabco or Tokico dual 3/4", 180B Bendix booster,
> >proportioning valve with disc/drum. Optionally without the valve with
> >disc/disc if you are using a hard pad on the front and a premium pad (eg
> >Bendix) on the back. Wardy's just changed to this setup (rear drums
13/16"
> >rwc) and last time I heard from him about the results from the change he
> was
> >rapped. I would recommend still using the valve if you have standard
street
> >soft (black sh*t on your wheels) pads front and rear.
> >
> >If you don't want to use a booster: (my preference for non-street)
> >Use a 13/16" or 7/8" Tokico or Nabco from 240K (C110) or Skyline (C210).
> I'm
> >not convinced either way that non-boosted the 7/8" cylinder is better or
> >worse than the 13/16" but with the 13/16" the last 510 I drove had rear
> >drums with the smaller 1200 coupe 11/16" rear wheel cylinders and it was
in
> >my acceptable range. I hate sloppy no feel squishy brakes no matter how
> well
> >they stop.
> >
> >I hope this is what you were after, mind you there is no one correct
answer
> >for most of what I and others recommend on the list - it's really only
> >spreading the knowledge based on our experiences and they are quite
varied
> >amongst a great bunch of ppl.
> >
> >Terry
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of c_peters
> >Sent: Friday, 23 June 2000 7:21 PM
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: 240K
> >
> >
> >Terry, (we should rename this list to 'ask terry')
> >
> >What master cylinder would you recommend for 240k twin spots on the front
> >and
> >r31 on the rear?
> >
> >Also what inserts would you recommend for c210 (240k) front struts?
Pedders
> >sports were priced at $280 a pair. whats good value for $$.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Chris
> >
> >Chris ;)
> >
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >www.cpdesign.net
> >
> >
> >
>
> Chris ;)
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> www.cpdesign.net
>
>
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