Pete
what a good idea to weld a bar to an old rim.. must store that one away
cheers
Mick
----- Original Message -----
From: Pete & Kath Liebig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 11:01 PM
Subject: RE: Nismo inserts
> CP,
>
> Yep, I think they are DB1106. Same shape pad. You just have to add the two
> dowels on the back of one pad to stop the pistons rotating. You can either
> add a spot of weld or I tapped a blind thread into the back and made up
some
> short dowels with thread on one end by cutting down some bolts. Works
great.
>
> >From memory I had to take a very small amount of pad material off too.
The
> Commy ones were slightly thicker. They may go in with the extra material,
I
> just made them identical to the proper R31 pads.
>
> I just carefully ground the squashed part of the Jesus nut off, then used
a
> bloody long (4 ft) extension bar. Located the axle by welding another 4 ft
> extension bar to an old wheel. Desperate times...
>
> 'later
> PL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of CP
> Sent: Tuesday, 1 August 2000 20:13
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Nismo inserts
>
> you can use crummy pads in r31 rears...tell me more...
>
> Also on the subject...How did people go about removing the nut from the
rear
> arm axel...I eventually got mine off but were wondering what other people
> did as these things are so F#$#ing tight...
>
> About to modifiy brackets to fit so I'll see how I go.....Think I'll
replace
> the bearings as well...they look fairly worn...
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Pete & Kath Liebig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 8:15 PM
> Subject: RE: Nismo inserts
>
>
> > Terry,
> >
> > I never really looked into the seals deal in any depth. You may want to
> > check around first before giving up... Sometimes people will tell you
> stuff
> > isn't available, but if you ask around you can get it - like being able
to
> > use the Commodore pads in the R31 rear calipers - enabling yours truly
to
> > run his favourite Bendix pads front and back!
> >
> > 'later
> > PL
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Terry &
Heather
> > Sent: Monday, 31 July 2000 21:39
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: RE: Nismo inserts
> >
> > Errol & Pete,
> >
> > Thanks for the info. I spose if you can't get seals for them then that
> kills
> > any idea of migrating them to a big axle 180B strut. I had this crazy
idea
> I
> > could build up a set of Magna ventilated struts with them but if I can't
> get
> > the seals then I'm stuffed on that front. I don't know what grade of oil
> was
> > originally put in these by Ray Gulson but you wouldn't want it any
> stiffer.
> > I'm gunna give myself a hernia trying to get them extended again.
> >
> > terry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pete & Kath
> > Liebig
> > Sent: Monday, 31 July 2000 7:09 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: RE: Nismo inserts
> >
> >
> > Guys,
> >
> > I used to have some of these on my 180B. I used to do exactly what the
> feral
> > one said - plenty of different weight oils around for bike forks, so you
> > effectively have very cheap front suspension with adjustable damping.
They
> > used to work REALLY WELL - I wish they still used them, but I seem to
> > remember something about not being able to get seals for them????
> >
> > 'later
> > PL
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Errol Smith
> > Sent: Monday, 31 July 2000 7:01
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Nismo inserts
> >
> > Terry,
> > I think the 11" wet leg inserts will fit the 10.5" struts as there is
> > normally plenty of clearance in the base of the leg. The good thing with
> > wet legs is there is normally double the quantity of fluid available to
> > prevent loss of damping effort. Also you get to play with differing
> > viscosity fluid to match the damping to your setup using Belray or other
> > bike fork oils.
> > Cheers
> > Feral Errol
> > ----------
> > From: Terry & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Nismo inserts
> > Date: Sunday, July 30, 2000 10:50
> >
> > Errol,
> > I still have a set of 11" (long) 510 struts with the wet type inserts. I
> > re-used the euro springs with my current 200B struts but I've kept the
> > struts in the shed but no one wants 11" struts these days. I was
wondering
> > if you know whether the wet inserts are transferable to a shorter strut
or
> > are they size dependant. I've had these on the street for 20 years or so
> > and
> > they still out perform the average Munro GT gas type strut and they are
> > megga stiff.
> >
> > regards
> >
> > Terry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Errol Smith
> > Sent: Sunday, 30 July 2000 4:55 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: live axle mods
> >
> >
> > Nick, I am still looking at the conversion options for the rear axle. I
> > think Heaths housing cut down is looking good for price. The nismo
inserts
> > are oil only, not gas and are adjustable at the top of the shaft centre
> > with a small screwdriver
> > Cheers
> > Feral Errol.
> >
> >
> > ----------
> > From: abrahamk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: live axle mods
> > Date: Saturday, July 29, 2000 8:37
> >
> > Errol et al.,
> > I asked a diff workshop about the Commodore diff centre swap;
> > They said that they hadn't done this particular conversion and that
> > 1.the Commodore axles had 23 splines.
> > 2.The commodore diff would not fit into the Datsun housing.
> > 3.The Stanza axle is weak to start with so it would be better to get a
S3
> > TRX Bluebird conversion, for example.
> >
> > What is involved in the Commodore axle conversion that you mentioned,
> > wouldn't you have to get Datsun-pattern (4 bolt) axle-flanges made up?,
> i.e
> > effectively new axles.
> >
> > Looks like the Salisbury axle and 720 LS centre is the 'easiest' way to
go
> > limited slip, followed next by locating a H190 Stanza casing and doing a
> S3
> > TRX centre swap (assuming the splines are the same), and finally by
doing
> a
> > complete rear axle conver$ion.
> >
> > The works axle that you have looks a beauty, with the 4 pot callipers
you
> > could stop quicker going backwards than you could going forwards!
> > One thing that I saw on your site that struck me was the adjustable
NISMO
> > strut cartridges.
> > I am aiming to do a Bluebird strut swap (since I have them lying around)
> as
> > a phase 1 then do a skyline/240K swap as a phase 2, with adjustable
> > platforms and works 'Europe' spec springs and shocks.
> > Will the NISMO cartridges fit into these struts? Are they gas
pressurised?
> > Are they externally adjustable - without dismantling any suspension
etc..
> >
> > Just a quick note on front suspension, when we talked on the 'phone you
> > mentioned (from memory) that you relocate the toe-control arms 40mm (out
> or
> > in?), I have just had a look at the front end of my car and the stock
> setup
> > on the chassis side seems perfect, the transverse arm axis lines up with
> > the
> > centre of the toe-control joint, i.e it is effectively a big A-arm
member
> > with no inherent bump-steer. When you take into account the location of
> the
> > steering joints, relocating any of the chassis-side joints (singly or
two
> > from three) would be detrimental.
> >
> > I have re-read the CAMS manual and have come to the happy realisation
that
> > suspension components may be 'interchangeable', so the 10mm longer
> > transverse arms look like a very good idea.
> > What are the arm lengths of various Datsun models - are there any swaps
> > that
> > would give extra length - with matching toe-control rods presumably.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 7:44 AM
> > Subject: Re: live axle mods
> >
> >
> > > Nick,
> > > I am not sure of the axle splines although from memory the commodore
> uses
> > > 32 splines where the H190 uses 30mm diam with 29 teeth. I was told by
a
> > > local trans & diff co that they could do it. Heaths alternative of
just
> > > redoing the commodore housing and putting new mounts on sounds a
really
> > > good and cheap proposition.
> > > In my race Stanza, I ran a locker with a rear stabiliser to get some
> > extra
> > > oversteer and it worked a treat. You miss out a bit on the easy turn
in
> > to
> > > the corner and have to be a little more aggressive with the throttle
but
> > > can be very quick.
> > > Cheers
> > > Feral Errol
> > >
> > > ----------
> > > From: abrahamk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: Re: live axle mods
> > > Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 10:12
> > >
> > > Errol,
> > > Are the splines the same on the Commodore LSD type driveshafts as on
the
> > > Datsun ones?
> > > Are the diff centre mounts the same? i.e will the centre bolt in OK
> > without
> > > machining and will the shafts insert into the side gears?
> > > If this could be arranged relatively easily then you could use the
> > existing
> > > Datsun crownwheel and pinion and the Commodore LSD centre.
> > > Sounds far to easy though...but I can dream.
> > > I've been driving my Stanza around this last week and have been
thinking
> > > that if an LSD is too hard that I could run a Locker and no rear
> > anti-roll
> > > bar. In terms of lack of understeer when driving hard I think a Locker
> > and
> > > lots of rear end roll might be superior to a tight LSD and anti roll
> bar.
> > > Thanks
> > > Nick
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 8:18 AM
> > > Subject: Re: live axle mods
> > >
> > >
> > > > Nick,
> > > > Funny you should say that. I am currently looking at the possibility
> of
> > > > modifying a common whore slippery centre into a stanza Salisbury
(Borg
> > > > Warner) housing. It would be a cheap slippery setup (but only two
> > pinion
> > > > LSD though) but should handle the grunt of an L series all right. I
> > does
> > > > involve remachining the housing for the pinion and the centre
though.
> > > Costs
> > > > are the big unknown!
> > > > The works rear I have ( see it at www.datrats.com.au) has the alloy
> > > carrier
> > > > 4.875 4 pinion LSD with 80 ft/lb (15kg/cm) clutch pack. It uses 10
mm
> > > lock
> > > > wire drilled crown wheel bolts instead of 8mm for normal LSD,s. The
> > axles
> > > > are 29 spline with double taper roller wheel bearings to prevent pad
> > > knock
> > > > off. The housing is a triple tube thickness instead of two tubes.
The
> > > axle
> > > > assembly has ventilated discs and Sumitomo works four spot calipers.
> > The
> > > > brake line is braided stainless wire and has an extremely light
> > > > (titanium??) sheet diff guard). I want $3850 for the assembly.
> > > > The escort style strengthening works well but I haven't seen it used
> > for
> > > a
> > > > while. I have been setting up some live axle rear ends for dattos
with
> > > 3/4
> > > > deg neg camber and 3mm toe in, for rallying (copying the works specs
> > diff
> > > > housing).
> > > > Cheers
> > > > Feral Errol
> > > >
> > > > ----------
> > > > From: abrahamk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > Subject: Re: live axle mods
> > > > Date: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 7:46
> > > >
> > > > Given that the Sailsbury axle was made in Australia, are there any
> > known
> > > > diff centre swaps with domestic vehicles?
> > > > An LSD disk brake Commodore rear end can be had for about $300.00,
for
> > > > example.
> > > > If is is not a bolt in swap, what would be involved?
> > > > What kind of general and rear end specific stock do you have at the
> > > moment
> > > > Errol?
> > > > We talked before about the works rear end that you have, what are
it's
> > > > specifications and cost?
> > > > Has anyone tried copying the Escort style axle strengthening alloy
> > plate
> > > > that bolts up inbetween the rear cover plate and axle and extends
> > along
> > > > the
> > > > axle tubes, where it is fastened by U-bolts?
> > > > Also, has anyone tried fitting TRX rear discs to a Sailsbury
housing,
> > is
> > > it
> > > > straightforward?
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > NICK
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 7:54 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: live axle mods
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Nick,
> > > > > Banjo housing differentials have the centre removed from the front
> of
> > > the
> > > > > housing by removing axles and undoing either 8 or 10 nuts.
> > > > > Both the H165 and H190 housings use this system.
> > > > > 1. The first Letter refers to the style of housing. "H" refers to
> the
> > > > banjo
> > > > > style housing, R refers to the Fixed housing used in 510, 610, Z's
> > etc.
> > > > > 2. The number after the Letter prefix refers to the crown wheel
> > > diameter
> > > > >
> > > > > An A or B suffix refers to either an Amboid or Hypoid pinion gear
> > > > > configuration.
> > > > >
> > > > > The housing with the rear cover plate and rear centre removal is
> > called
> > > a
> > > > > Salisbury housing. The examples used in OZ datto's were made by
Borg
> > > > > Warner.
> > > > > The baffles stop a sudden sloshing out into the axle tubes by only
> > > > > providing a small gap between the axle and the baffle and also a
> > small
> > > > > return drain hole back from the tube into the centre. The works
> > > housings
> > > > I
> > > > > have use only approx 2 mm between the axle and baffle. The
baffles
> > are
> > > > > just a rectangular sheet of steel with a central hole that is
folded
> > > into
> > > > > the shape of the inner surface of the diff housing and spot welded
> > into
> > > > > position.
> > > > > 720 rear diffs are open normally although LSD's were an option.
> > > > > LSD H190 centres vary from between $600 $2000 dollare depending on
> > the
> > > > > type. Normal 2 pinion LSD's can be had for as little as $600 new
if
> > you
> > > > are
> > > > > lucky up to $1000 normally. The works differentials used 4 pinion
> > gears
> > > > and
> > > > > stronger housings but are usually $1500 to $2000. Nismo only deal
> > with
> > > > > distributors in each country and will not deal direct with
> > individuals.
> > > > > Cheers
> > > > > Feral Errol.
> > > > > ----------
> > > > > From: abrahamk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > > Subject: live axle mods
> > > > > Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 6:23
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
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