Rick,
I wasn't trying to scare Bryan rather to make inform him of what it really
costs to do the full monty properly and more importantly legally. I'd hate
for someone to outlay big $ to drop a turbo into a stocker and then to be
confronted with the dilemma of getting is regoed. There is some good info on
that list on what other modifications cost and I recommend that if you're
going to do a stocker up then start with the safety and comfort items first
and then do the driveline last.
terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rick White
Sent: Wednesday, 23 August 2000 12:18 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Terry what engine in my 1600?
Terry are you trying to scare the poor boy?
Hius budjet was $3000.00 complete not $10.000.
Ohh well you get that hea.
It wasgood to see a rundown on the costs as I was kinda interested in them
but DAMMMMM!
Till nextt time happy DATTO Motoring.
--- "Terry & Heather" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>Part: 1
><pre>Bryan,
>
>I have attached an email that gives you a rough idea on the cost for a
turbo
>transplant in a 1600.
>
>regards
>
>Terry
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bryan Walker
>Sent: Wednesday, 23 August 2000 7:07 AM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: what engine in my 1600?
>
>
>I have a problem and that is I don't know what engine to put into my 1600.
>I have owned a 1600 for about a year and haven't had the cash to do
anything
>to my bog stock 1600, still with a L16 and 4-speed gearbox. However, now
>I
>have the funds! So, which engine and who can help?Budget of around $3000
>give or take.
>
>a)Which EFI engine would be a wise replacement?
>b)How much does a Z18 turbo cost to buy and fit?
>c)What gearbox to fit and about what it will cost?
>d)Who in W.A. can do the whole project for me? Including chasing down the
>engine, fitting and if needed any other mods.
>
>In other words I need a performance workshop in Perth that I can simply
>go
>to with my datto and say get me moving faster than a streetsweeper.
>I have a small aim and that is to make the datto 0-100km in under 9 secs.
>
>Also I have another query. How much does a paint job cost? as my car is
>mustard in colour and any other colour would do. Anybody know who in W.A.
>to recommend?
>
>I know these are some pretty rough questions but I love the 1600 and know
>absolutely nothing about cars except turbos are great to drive and a turbo
>in a 1600 must be pretty sweet.
>Thanks if you can help.
>________________________________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at <A
HREF="http://www.hotmail.com" target="_new">http://www.hotmail.com</A>
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>
>
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>---------------------------------------------------------------------</pre>
Part: 2
>From : "Terry & Heather" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>To : <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Date : Fri, 30 Jun 2000 19:10:21 +1000
>
>Subject : Turbo Conversion costs for a 510
>
>
>
>
>
><P><FONT color=#ff6600>Re-posted as requested on 17/5/2000</FONT>
<BR>terry,
><BR>could you please dig up that costing breakdown bc I reckon there would
be a
>few of us out there interested <BR>thanks <BR>andrew
><P>Terry & Heather wrote:
><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE="CITE">
> <P><SPAN class=700511109-30062000>I have gathered some information over a
> period of time that details what it costs to build a street legal
510
> with one of the popular turbo engines. </SPAN>Let's say we have a bog
stock
> straight bodied road regd. 510 and are looking at converting it with an
> FJ20DET.<SPAN class=700511109-30062000> I picked the FJ simply because it
is
> the only engine I have installed myself from go to whoa.</SPAN>
> <P><SPAN class=700511109-30062000>Note. A</SPAN><SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000>ny Nissan Turbo</SPAN> would be a fairly
similar
> outlay<SPAN class=700511109-30062000> engineering wise, you would need to
> adjust the purchase price of the particular engine.</SPAN>
> <P><SPAN class=700511109-30062000></SPAN> Here is a run down if you
and
> your mates do most of the work using some 2nd hand parts (wreckers
prices,
> U<SPAN class=700511109-30062000>-</SPAN>Pulls <SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000>tend to be </SPAN>cheaper<SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000> on some things</SPAN>) and buying some fairly
mid
> range quality bits that this sort of conversion deserves and most
engineers
> require for "that" important piece of paper.
> <P>FJ20DET non intercooled complete with standard computer & 5 speed
box
> <FONT color=#ff0000>$2<SPAN class=700511109-30062000>3</SPAN>00</FONT> -
<FONT
> color=#3333ff>$2600</FONT> <BR>Upgrade to standard factory intercooled
<FONT
> color=#3333ff>$200</FONT> - $300 <BR>Fitting kit (exchange tailshaft
&
> xmember) <FONT color=#009900>$700</FONT>; add $200 for outright or DIY
~$200
> <BR>N13 Pulsar alloy radiator 2nd hand <FONT color=#ff0000>$100</FONT> -
<FONT
> color=#3333ff>$125</FONT>, new $250 - $300
> <P>Front Brake Upgrade to solid<SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000> </SPAN>e.g. 200B: <BR>
2nd
> hand struts complete <FONT color=#cc0000>$100</FONT> - <FONT
> color=#0000ff>$200 <BR> </FONT>Lowered springs & GT
gas
> inserts and wheel alignment <FONT color=#ff0000>$300</FONT> - <FONT
> color=#3333ff>$800</FONT> (> quality) <BR> Machine
discs
> & new pads (standard) <FONT color=#cc0000>$100</FONT> <BR><SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000> Upgrade to 180B SSS Tokico or
> Nabco dual 3/4" master cylinder and Bendix booster <FONT
color=#ff0000>$100
> </FONT>- <FONT color=#0000ff>$150</FONT></SPAN><BR><FONT
> color=#0000ff> </FONT><BR><SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000>Optional Front Brake </SPAN>Upgrade to
> vented <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>:<BR>
> </SPAN>(i.e. for NSW using Verada rotors & VL Commodore callipers,
need 74
> mm late 180B struts) <FONT color=#3333ff>$500</FONT> <BR></P>
> <P>Exhaust: <BR> factory turbo exhaust flange &
down
> pipe <FONT color=#00cc00>$50</FONT> <BR> 3" average
quality
> to xmember & 2.5" tailpipe, cat convertor & turbo muffler <FONT
> color=#cc0000>$500</FONT> - <FONT color=#3333ff>$1000</FONT> (>
quality)
> </P>
> <P>Rear axle: <BR> R180 open differential & half
shafts
> <FONT color=#009900>$200</FONT> e.g. C210 Skyline 3.9:1
> <P>Electrics: <BR> Relocate battery to boot in approved
> manner (fixed & vented box if standard type open vent battery
> used) with single cable to engine bay <FONT
color=#009900>$130</FONT>
> <BR> Miscellaneous relays and wiring, connectors etc.
<FONT
> color=#009900>$200</FONT>
> <P>Fuel System: <BR> Surge tank & HP Pump <FONT
> color=#cc0000>$100</FONT> - <FONT color=#000000>$250</FONT> (bit of a
range
> here, <FONT color=#cc0000>Gazelle pump in tank is cheap &
> effective</FONT>, 2nd hand HP Bosch (VL) & separate surge tank
~$100
> & $120 respectively, complete combined unit<FONT color=#3333ff>
> ~$200</FONT>) <BR><SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000> </SPAN>LP pump, relay
&
> HP fuel lines <FONT color=#cc0000>$75</FONT> - <FONT
color=#3333ff>$100</FONT>
>
> <P>Wheels & Tyres: <BR> 4 x 2nd hand basic 5.5"x14"
> Skyline steel rims <FONT color=#009900>$50</FONT> <BR>
4 x
> 2nd hand 185/<SPAN class=700511109-30062000>65</SPAN> or 195/<SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000>6</SPAN>0 < 1/2 worn <FONT
> color=#cc0000>$100</FONT> - <FONT color=#3333ff>$250</FONT>+
(quality
> imports are around $60 per tyre)
> <P>Engineering: <BR> Big range here and varies by State
a
> lot, min is ~$500 to $1200+ (thieves), ballpark is ~<FONT
> color=#009900>$750</FONT>
> <P>Sundry Items: <BR> Accelerator cable, remote brake
bits,
> hoses, plugs, filters, oil etc. etc. ~<FONT color=#00cc00>$300</FONT>
> <P>The cost for "red <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>(<FONT
> color=#ff0000>$3775</FONT>) </SPAN>+ common green" <SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000>(<FONT color=#008000>$2380</FONT>)
</SPAN>highlighted
> items: $6<SPAN class=700511109-30062000>1</SPAN>55 <BR>The cost for
> "blue <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>(<FONT
color=#0000ff>$6125</FONT>)
> </SPAN>+ common green" <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>(<FONT
> color=#008000>$2380</FONT>) </SPAN>highlighted items: $<SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000>8505</SPAN></P>
> <P><SPAN class=700511109-30062000></SPAN>What have I missed: $??? </P>
> <P>Extras: (not an exhaustive list, just some popular upgrades) <BR>Mags
&
> tyres $1300 <BR>Aftermarket ECU ~$1300 (Wolf 3D) <BR>Lights, CD,
> Amp <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>~</SPAN>$1000 <BR>Seats &
> Interior <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>~</SPAN>$500+ (<SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000>fairly </SPAN>basic seats) <BR>Respray $<SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000>1</SPAN>,<SPAN
> class=700511109-30062000>2</SPAN>00 <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>-
> $5000+</SPAN><BR>Rear discs (R31) ~$300 <BR>Nolathane bushes ~$300
> <BR>Tinted glass 3M <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>~</SPAN>$250
<BR>LSD
> ~$1200 <BR>Dyno time: ~$60 /hr <BR>Adjustable front end (castor rods
&
> camber plates) ~$500
> <P>That 'll do for starters, I think any prospective 510 Turbo convertors
will
> get a bit of an idea from this and you can see why the L series is still
very
> popular and will more than likely always continue to be so and there's
nothing
> wrong with that (IMHO).
> <P>regards <BR>Terry</P></BLOCKQUOTE>
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