I agree 100%, there is nothing wrong with a L20B or L18 with a nice
suspension, brake and interior upgrade.
terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Brad HALLETT
Sent: Wednesday, 23 August 2000 10:52 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Terry what engine in my 1600?
With a budget of $3000, I reckon he woul be better off building a decent
L20B. It is much better to d a good job on an NA engine than a half baked
job on a turbo engine
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry & Heather" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 1:06 AM
Subject: RE: Terry what engine in my 1600?
> Rick,
> I wasn't trying to scare Bryan rather to make inform him of what it really
> costs to do the full monty properly and more importantly legally. I'd hate
> for someone to outlay big $ to drop a turbo into a stocker and then to be
> confronted with the dilemma of getting is regoed. There is some good info
on
> that list on what other modifications cost and I recommend that if you're
> going to do a stocker up then start with the safety and comfort items
first
> and then do the driveline last.
>
> terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rick White
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 August 2000 12:18 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Terry what engine in my 1600?
>
>
> Terry are you trying to scare the poor boy?
> Hius budjet was $3000.00 complete not $10.000.
> Ohh well you get that hea.
> It wasgood to see a rundown on the costs as I was kinda interested in them
> but DAMMMMM!
> Till nextt time happy DATTO Motoring.
>
> --- "Terry & Heather" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >Part: 1
> ><pre>Bryan,
> >
> >I have attached an email that gives you a rough idea on the cost for a
> turbo
> >transplant in a 1600.
> >
> >regards
> >
> >Terry
> >
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bryan Walker
> >Sent: Wednesday, 23 August 2000 7:07 AM
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: what engine in my 1600?
> >
> >
> >I have a problem and that is I don't know what engine to put into my
1600.
> >I have owned a 1600 for about a year and haven't had the cash to do
> anything
> >to my bog stock 1600, still with a L16 and 4-speed gearbox. However, now
> >I
> >have the funds! So, which engine and who can help?Budget of around $3000
> >give or take.
> >
> >a)Which EFI engine would be a wise replacement?
> >b)How much does a Z18 turbo cost to buy and fit?
> >c)What gearbox to fit and about what it will cost?
> >d)Who in W.A. can do the whole project for me? Including chasing down
the
> >engine, fitting and if needed any other mods.
> >
> >In other words I need a performance workshop in Perth that I can simply
> >go
> >to with my datto and say get me moving faster than a streetsweeper.
> >I have a small aim and that is to make the datto 0-100km in under 9 secs.
> >
> >Also I have another query. How much does a paint job cost? as my car is
> >mustard in colour and any other colour would do. Anybody know who in
W.A.
> >to recommend?
> >
> >I know these are some pretty rough questions but I love the 1600 and know
> >absolutely nothing about cars except turbos are great to drive and a
turbo
> >in a 1600 must be pretty sweet.
> >Thanks if you can help.
> >________________________________________________________________________
> >Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at <A
> HREF="http://www.hotmail.com" target="_new">http://www.hotmail.com</A>
> >
> >
> >
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>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------</pre>
> Part: 2
> >From : "Terry & Heather" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> >To : <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> >Date : Fri, 30 Jun 2000 19:10:21 +1000
> >
> >Subject : Turbo Conversion costs for a 510
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ><P><FONT color=#ff6600>Re-posted as requested on 17/5/2000</FONT>
> <BR>terry,
> ><BR>could you please dig up that costing breakdown bc I reckon there
would
> be a
> >few of us out there interested <BR>thanks <BR>andrew
> ><P>Terry & Heather wrote:
> ><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE="CITE">
> > <P><SPAN class=700511109-30062000>I have gathered some information over
a
> > period of time that details what it costs to build a street legal
> 510
> > with one of the popular turbo engines. </SPAN>Let's say we have a bog
> stock
> > straight bodied road regd. 510 and are looking at converting it with an
> > FJ20DET.<SPAN class=700511109-30062000> I picked the FJ simply because
it
> is
> > the only engine I have installed myself from go to
whoa.</SPAN>
> > <P><SPAN class=700511109-30062000>Note. A</SPAN><SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000>ny Nissan Turbo</SPAN> would be a fairly
> similar
> > outlay<SPAN class=700511109-30062000> engineering wise, you would need
to
> > adjust the purchase price of the particular engine.</SPAN>
> > <P><SPAN class=700511109-30062000></SPAN> Here is a run down if
you
> and
> > your mates do most of the work using some 2nd hand parts (wreckers
> prices,
> > U<SPAN class=700511109-30062000>-</SPAN>Pulls <SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000>tend to be </SPAN>cheaper<SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000> on some things</SPAN>) and buying some fairly
> mid
> > range quality bits that this sort of conversion deserves and most
> engineers
> > require for "that" important piece of paper.
> > <P>FJ20DET non intercooled complete with standard computer & 5
speed
> box
> > <FONT color=#ff0000>$2<SPAN
class=700511109-30062000>3</SPAN>00</FONT> -
> <FONT
> > color=#3333ff>$2600</FONT> <BR>Upgrade to standard factory intercooled
> <FONT
> > color=#3333ff>$200</FONT> - $300 <BR>Fitting kit (exchange tailshaft
> &
> > xmember) <FONT color=#009900>$700</FONT>; add $200 for outright or DIY
> ~$200
> > <BR>N13 Pulsar alloy radiator 2nd hand <FONT
color=#ff0000>$100</FONT> -
> <FONT
> > color=#3333ff>$125</FONT>, new $250 - $300
> > <P>Front Brake Upgrade to solid<SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000> </SPAN>e.g. 200B: <BR>
> 2nd
> > hand struts complete <FONT color=#cc0000>$100</FONT> - <FONT
> > color=#0000ff>$200 <BR> </FONT>Lowered springs &
GT
> gas
> > inserts and wheel alignment <FONT color=#ff0000>$300</FONT> - <FONT
> > color=#3333ff>$800</FONT> (> quality) <BR> Machine
> discs
> > & new pads (standard) <FONT
color=#cc0000>$100</FONT> <BR><SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000> Upgrade to 180B SSS Tokico
or
> > Nabco dual 3/4" master cylinder and Bendix booster <FONT
> color=#ff0000>$100
> > </FONT>- <FONT color=#0000ff>$150</FONT></SPAN><BR><FONT
> > color=#0000ff> </FONT><BR><SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000>Optional Front Brake </SPAN>Upgrade to
> > vented <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>:<BR>
> > </SPAN>(i.e. for NSW using Verada rotors & VL Commodore callipers,
> need 74
> > mm late 180B struts) <FONT color=#3333ff>$500</FONT> <BR></P>
> > <P>Exhaust: <BR> factory turbo exhaust flange &
> down
> > pipe <FONT color=#00cc00>$50</FONT> <BR> 3" average
> quality
> > to xmember & 2.5" tailpipe, cat convertor & turbo muffler <FONT
> > color=#cc0000>$500</FONT> - <FONT color=#3333ff>$1000</FONT> (>
> quality)
> > </P>
> > <P>Rear axle: <BR> R180 open differential & half
> shafts
> > <FONT color=#009900>$200</FONT> e.g. C210 Skyline 3.9:1
> > <P>Electrics: <BR> Relocate battery to boot in
approved
> > manner (fixed & vented box if standard type open vent battery
> > used) with single cable to engine bay <FONT
> color=#009900>$130</FONT>
> > <BR> Miscellaneous relays and wiring, connectors etc.
> <FONT
> > color=#009900>$200</FONT>
> > <P>Fuel System: <BR> Surge tank & HP Pump <FONT
> > color=#cc0000>$100</FONT> - <FONT color=#000000>$250</FONT> (bit of a
> range
> > here, <FONT color=#cc0000>Gazelle pump in tank is cheap &
> > effective</FONT>, 2nd hand HP Bosch (VL) & separate surge tank
> ~$100
> > & $120 respectively, complete combined unit<FONT color=#3333ff>
> > ~$200</FONT>) <BR><SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000> </SPAN>LP pump, relay
> &
> > HP fuel lines <FONT color=#cc0000>$75</FONT> - <FONT
> color=#3333ff>$100</FONT>
> >
> > <P>Wheels & Tyres: <BR> 4 x 2nd hand basic
5.5"x14"
> > Skyline steel rims <FONT color=#009900>$50</FONT>
<BR>
> 4 x
> > 2nd hand 185/<SPAN class=700511109-30062000>65</SPAN> or 195/<SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000>6</SPAN>0 < 1/2 worn <FONT
> > color=#cc0000>$100</FONT> - <FONT color=#3333ff>$250</FONT>+
> (quality
> > imports are around $60 per tyre)
> > <P>Engineering: <BR> Big range here and varies by
State
> a
> > lot, min is ~$500 to $1200+ (thieves), ballpark is ~<FONT
> > color=#009900>$750</FONT>
> > <P>Sundry Items: <BR> Accelerator cable, remote brake
> bits,
> > hoses, plugs, filters, oil etc. etc. ~<FONT color=#00cc00>$300</FONT>
> > <P>The cost for "red <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>(<FONT
> > color=#ff0000>$3775</FONT>) </SPAN>+ common green" <SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000>(<FONT color=#008000>$2380</FONT>)
> </SPAN>highlighted
> > items: $6<SPAN class=700511109-30062000>1</SPAN>55 <BR>The cost
for
> > "blue <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>(<FONT
> color=#0000ff>$6125</FONT>)
> > </SPAN>+ common green" <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>(<FONT
> > color=#008000>$2380</FONT>) </SPAN>highlighted items: $<SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000>8505</SPAN></P>
> > <P><SPAN class=700511109-30062000></SPAN>What have I missed: $??? </P>
> > <P>Extras: (not an exhaustive list, just some popular upgrades)
<BR>Mags
> &
> > tyres $1300 <BR>Aftermarket ECU ~$1300 (Wolf 3D) <BR>Lights, CD,
> > Amp <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>~</SPAN>$1000 <BR>Seats &
> > Interior <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>~</SPAN>$500+ (<SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000>fairly </SPAN>basic seats) <BR>Respray $<SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000>1</SPAN>,<SPAN
> > class=700511109-30062000>2</SPAN>00 <SPAN
class=700511109-30062000>-
> > $5000+</SPAN><BR>Rear discs (R31) ~$300 <BR>Nolathane bushes
~$300
> > <BR>Tinted glass 3M <SPAN class=700511109-30062000>~</SPAN>$250
> <BR>LSD
> > ~$1200 <BR>Dyno time: ~$60 /hr <BR>Adjustable front end (castor rods
> &
> > camber plates) ~$500
> > <P>That 'll do for starters, I think any prospective 510 Turbo
convertors
> will
> > get a bit of an idea from this and you can see why the L series is
still
> very
> > popular and will more than likely always continue to be so and there's
> nothing
> > wrong with that (IMHO).
> > <P>regards <BR>Terry</P></BLOCKQUOTE>
>
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