Terry,
Thanks for the advice.
Most of the suspension components are wornish...
New o/s ball joint, tie rod ends have a little movement but i think the
majority of play is coming from the steering box...
I think the pedders thing is probly a good way to go and see what they say
before i start grinding.
The control arms pushed right through the dust cover!!
At least there's heaps of pad left. hehe
Simon
>From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: RE: lower control arms (long)
>Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 03:30:26 +1000
>
>Simon,
>This problem comes up now and again on the list and as it seems like we
>haven't collected enough data or quite worked out exactly why it happens on
>some cars and not others to give you a precise "this is the way to fix the
>problem" type answer.
>
>I have a theory that it only happens when you use the 200B rotors that have
>the smaller hub height of 43.6 mm as opposed to the more common 48 mm
>rotors
>but it's only an observed hunch with little to back it up. I have never had
>the problem but one Datto that I saw that did actually had the 48 mm rotors
>but the tie rod end and the ball joints were absolutely rooted and that was
>the cause of the contact which was mainly occurring under heavy braking and
>not going around corners with a high load on the wheel. The front
>suspension
>was brand new on this car and there was no flex in this area so the control
>arm must have been moving outward under brakes. We replaced the worn
>components ($$) and then the control arm didn't even come into contact with
>the dust cover and if everything is in good shape under there nor should
>it.
>
>A lot of us grind the ends of the control arm which will usually fixes the
>disc scoring problem but I'm sure there is a more serious problem with the
>combination of components used or wear in other components that's not being
>addressed with that solution. Another thing is that a lot of us don't fit
>the dust cover and this exposes the disc to this sort of damage.
>
>The minimum thickness of the 200B disc is 10.5 mm. Unfortunately you could
>need quite a lot of replacement parts and have it checked out by a
>suspension place to get a second opinion if you don't know anyone that
>could
>do it for you - don't tell them anything, it's just in for a checkup -
>Pedders do a 28 point suspension check for $14 every now and again.
>Obviously you will need replacement rotors but 200B stuff is dirt cheap
>either at the wreckers or even in the local paper. You have to match the
>hub
>height of the existing rotors as there are 2 types and the callipers/pads
>to
>suite each type are slightly different.
>
>regards
>Terry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of simon
>waterhouse
>Sent: Sunday, 17 September 2000 11:00 AM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: lower control arms (long)
>
>
>Listers,
>Just doing a bit of under car maintenance and pulling stuff apart to have a
>snoop.
>I've got 240k struts up front with sumitimo (spelling)calipers and 200b
>discs. Took the calipers off and found the lower control arms have ground
>out the inside of both my front discs :(
>Is the best way to fix this to angle grind some of the tip of the control
>arm or is there something else.
>Also what is the minimum width of a 200b disc as one is about 11.5mm and
>the
>other is about 9.5mm.
>The l/c arm has taken out a gash of about .5-1.5mm gash in the disc and you
>can imagine the shape of the pads.
>do i need new stuff (discs,pads) i assume so.
>anyone got any suggestions for a sob with no money and little skills
>lol
>thanks Simon
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>
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