Trev,
Interesting numbers here, the Nizpro 1600 was designed along the same idea
from memory, they chopped 1" or so out of a Bluebird xmember and plumbed in
a Skyline rack HR31? and also used some 300Z bits for the steering column.
Chopping up a xmember would have to be only for racing me thinks. The Nizpro
car had a bit cut off both ends and not in the middle from what I recall so
it should be just as strong as the original in theory.

What's actually wrong with a fully adjustable 1600 frontend anyway, the
geometry is pretty spot on and if everything is in good condition then I
wouldn't think there would be much difference other than the feel to the
handling. I doubt whether you would gain any time on a track with a rack. I
could be wrong as I've never driven a 1600 with a rack although I have
driven a M3 and that was good for it's day but I wouldn't go back into my
1600 with the idea that I must put a rack into it. The good thing about a
rack in the Bluebird is that the steering is just about as precise after 10
years as it was from the factory.

I wouldn't be rushing out to put in a 240Z rack as a replacement in a 1600
as the 240Z had everything that is wrong with steering geometry from the
factory.

terry

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pooley, Trevor
Sent: Thursday, 28 September 2000 9:04 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: Rack and peanut steering


Pete,

I look at this a little diferently. I have datrally lower control arms which
are wound out (an extra 40mm fom memory) for -ve camber. This makes front
track wider. So if I used a wider spacing between pivot points to match a
suitable rack. Then return the control arms too their std length and match
the tie rod lengths to the lower control arms then this should be
theoretically possible. OK you might need a new crossmember, but that would
probably be eaiser than shortening rack.

I have made the following measurements (mm)(All approx)
                            1600         Bluebird
Ball joint to ball joint    1140         1300
Ball joint to pivot point   290          330
Pivot to pivot              560          640

So if the track on my car is 1140+80= 1220 then if I can mount the bluebird
crossmember 640 between pivots and shorten the tie rods by the right amount
say 40mm approx each and use 1600 lower control arms then overall track is
1220 which is about what I have now.

What do you think. My 1600 is for racing so I don't know the about any
road/engineering issues.

Regards
Trev


-----Original Message-----
From: Pete & Kath Liebig [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, 27 September 2000 18:43
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Rack and peanut steering


Hey Wojee,

I have looked into this too - quite a bit actually. I have scoured the
wreckers looking for a suitable rack to no avail. They are all just too
wide. The distance between the balljoints needs to match the original 1600
distance. The only way I can see of doing it is to shorten a rack to suit.

If you use a 240Z rack it would have to be mounted in front of the struts
the same as the 240Z??  Else you'g go right when you turned left!!  Could be
a good anti-theft measure...

You would need to do bumpsteer tests to get the right rack positioning too.

Please let me know if you have any luck - I'd lerrrrve to have R&P steering
on my Datto.

Pete Liebig


-----Original Message-----
From:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Wojee
Sent:   Saturday, 23 September 2000 2:41
To:     [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject:        Rack and peanut steering

Fellas,
Has anyone ever attempt to convert the datto to rack and peanut (pinion :O)
) steering.  I have herd this is a more repsonsive form of steering.  I have
a bluebird wreck in the front of my house and am kinda sizing up the rack
out of that.  Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Wojee :O)






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