Hey Trev,
Sorry about the late reply - been busy working on car.
I agree with what you are saying - makes good sense. My main problem with it
would be that my car is a street car and I want to get it all "engineered"
shortly. So major changes to the suspension would cause extra pain - pain I
can do without at the moment. The motor rego people seem to be particularly
paranoid when it comes to steering mods too - fair enough I guess.
I guess this would also tend to increase bump steer if the suspension was
used through it's normal travel, although on a race car (with the generally
limited suspension travel) it probably would not be an issue. My car is
pretty hard too, so it would probably work OK.
I really need to get some parts together and try some different ideas to see
just how good/bad different options are. The engineer I am going through has
got some steering rack shortening procedures sussed out (I think he uses a
Commy rack) so I guess I should have a look at that first. I was hoping to
find a rack with suitable dimensions if I hunted around enough, but it just
hasn't happened.
'later
Pete Liebig
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Pooley, Trevor
Sent: Thursday, 28 September 2000 8:34
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: Rack and peanut steering
Pete,
I look at this a little diferently. I have datrally lower control arms which
are wound out (an extra 40mm fom memory) for -ve camber. This makes front
track wider. So if I used a wider spacing between pivot points to match a
suitable rack. Then return the control arms too their std length and match
the tie rod lengths to the lower control arms then this should be
theoretically possible. OK you might need a new crossmember, but that would
probably be eaiser than shortening rack.
I have made the following measurements (mm)(All approx)
1600 Bluebird
Ball joint to ball joint 1140 1300
Ball joint to pivot point 290 330
Pivot to pivot 560 640
So if the track on my car is 1140+80= 1220 then if I can mount the bluebird
crossmember 640 between pivots and shorten the tie rods by the right amount
say 40mm approx each and use 1600 lower control arms then overall track is
1220 which is about what I have now.
What do you think. My 1600 is for racing so I don't know the about any
road/engineering issues.
Regards
Trev
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete & Kath Liebig [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, 27 September 2000 18:43
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Rack and peanut steering
Hey Wojee,
I have looked into this too - quite a bit actually. I have scoured the
wreckers looking for a suitable rack to no avail. They are all just too
wide. The distance between the balljoints needs to match the original 1600
distance. The only way I can see of doing it is to shorten a rack to suit.
If you use a 240Z rack it would have to be mounted in front of the struts
the same as the 240Z?? Else you'g go right when you turned left!! Could be
a good anti-theft measure...
You would need to do bumpsteer tests to get the right rack positioning too.
Please let me know if you have any luck - I'd lerrrrve to have R&P steering
on my Datto.
Pete Liebig
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Wojee
Sent: Saturday, 23 September 2000 2:41
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Rack and peanut steering
Fellas,
Has anyone ever attempt to convert the datto to rack and peanut (pinion :O)
) steering. I have herd this is a more repsonsive form of steering. I have
a bluebird wreck in the front of my house and am kinda sizing up the rack
out of that. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Wojee :O)
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