Hi terry
Thanks for the quick reply.
I feel better now but i can't understand how this happened.. I set the engine to TDC on no 1 before i removed the head and with the chain blocker in place i can't see how i could have rotated the motor that much .Oh well  no harm done but it is a puzzle...
Any thoughts about the metric measurements for the valve clearances?
anyway   thanks again
cheers
Mick
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Rudd
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 12:58 AM
Subject: RE: A strange thing happened....

Mick,
It is not possible to put the cam in 180 degrees out as the dowel determines the position of the cam in relation to the cam wheel but you must have turned the engine over with the head off and re-fitted the head with the timing markers set on TDC #4. You wont damage the engine in any way and as you have found it's easily fixed as it's only nuisance value but annoying none the less to know your engine is out. The easiest way to correct the problem back to standard is to remove the oil pump with the engine at it's new TDC #1 and reset the driveshaft in the correct position with the drive tongue offset to the front of the engine and then put the plug leads on the dizzy back to where they should be.
 
regards,
 
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mick Ralph
Sent: Thursday, 24 November 1994 11:56 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: A srange thing happened....

hi people
Well, as I wrote last week I was having problems with water pumping out of the radiator and then oil getting in to the water. As Errol suggested a blown head gasket I decided to pull the head off and have a look.  There was no obvious signs of the gasket (which was only 3000kms old) having blown. so i took the head to the engine reconditioners for their opinion. They reckoned that the (normal) corrosion problems were the cause and suggested a head reconditioning job. So,  they welded up two of the water jacket holes, shaved it flat again  (5thou off), and replaced the valve guides and seals, pressure tested it and gave it back to me. (is $280 a good price?).
So  I put it all back together exactly the way it came apart. I had marked the timing chain and cam gear with paint and used that as a reference. It went back together perfectly and I thought that it would just start on the turn of the key...
Guess what??  It wouldn't start!!!!!
It just popped and banged....
So I pulled the distributor cap and rocker cover off and turned the crank to TDC and the distributor rotor was pointing to No 4 cyl with the valves closed on No 1.. How could that be?? I asked myself. I swapped the leads around on the distributor and guess what??  It starts and runs like normal. Really well in fact. Now I didn't touch the distributor or the leads while i was doing the job and the paint marks on the cam sprocket and timing chain line up as per before I pulled it apart.
So my questions are   WHY????
Will I do any damage if I keep running the engine as it is?
Have I got the cam in 180 about? and is that possible?
What else might cause this to happen?
In addition when I went to set the valve clearances (cold) I checked the book and .008" for the inlets and .010" for the exhausts was recommended but my shiny new feeler gauges were in metric weren't they?  I used .040" = 1mm as a guide and set them  at .25mm exh and .20mm inlet. Is this correct?  Any recommendations for more accuracy? They seem to be ok but I still have one thats faintly noisy so I will be checking them again tomorrow.
Well thats about it for now
Sorry about the epic
Any help will be greatly appreciated
cheers
Mick
BTW   Engine is L20B  1mm os     Big port head     twin 45's    76 degree cam
There is a total of .009"  off the head with .010" shims under the cam towers

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