Hea there Richard you say engine oil??
I got told to use sewing machine oil was wot I was told incorrect.
If so wot grade engine oil should use.
I havn't driven the SSS since refilling with sewing machine oil so I shouldn't of done
any damage.
Thanks in advance.
Rick White.
--- "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>Ah twin SU's. Then forget most of the advice you have got.
>
>First check the fuel level in the float bowls at the correct hight. Use a
>SU tuning guide to do this, its easy.
>
>Next unscrew the big nut on top of each bell and pull out the damper
>pistons. Check for oil in the dampers. I dont think you will find any,
>this is why your engine will cut out when you blip the throttle. Put some
>engine oil in the tubes so the damper can do its stuff.
>
>Next slacken off all linkages between the carbs and set both butterflies
>individually to a low idle speed. You can check both butterflies are set the
>same by using a piece of hose as a "stethoscope". Put one end in you ear
>and the other end down each carb with the engine idling. They should both
>make the same sucking sound, if they dont, turn the idle adjustment on each
>carb until they sound identical at a low idle speed.
>
>Tighten all linkages, making sure that both butterflies are being opened at
>exactly the same time.
>Your engine should pull smoothly and hard from now on.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Sunday, 25 February 2001 1:44 AM
>Subject: Re: EFI L series engines and other fuel problems
>
>
>> Gday
>>
>> My name is not barbara, thats my mums name as the internet is payed for
>> by her and thats the email address we got given. Thansk. Anyway my
>> engine has 2 SU's 1 1/4
>> inch i think. Yeah and also the car doesnt idle, you have to keep your
>> feet on the accelerator, braker and clutch whilst the car is stopped at
>> tthe lights.
>>
>> Pele.
>>
>> Rick White wrote:
>>
>> > Babara your problem if your L series engine still has the standard carby
>on it with my guess would be the accellerator pump that is built in the
>carby is stuffed.
>> > I had the same problem a while ago.
>> > The accelerator pump is a little leather diapram thing that gives the
>carby just enough fuel to get going on lower idle.
>> > I got the carby specialist to fit mine as I didn't have a clue about it.
>
>> > But I sat and watched and it was dead easy to fit so next time I will do
>it myself.
>> > it only cost me about $25.00 to get it sorted.
>> > I hope you sort it out anyways.
>> > till next time.
>> > Rick White.
>> > --- [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> > > wrote:
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >Gday
>> > ><p>I think my 1600 has the same problem. In the last months i have been
>> > >working on the other side of the city through stop start traffic, when
>> > >i pull up at the lights for any wear between 1 and 15 minutes then i
>get
>> > >the green i accelertae and the car coughs like cristopher skase with an
>> > >extradition warrant on his head. It backfires and really pisses me off
>> > >and i dont no why it does this. But when i cruise with no stops the
>1600
>> > >will go all day, just the stop start which frigs it up. Is all i need a
>> > >$4 fuel regulator.? Also when i drive and nail the accelerater the car
>> > >lags quite alot before actaully doing what my right foot tells it to
>do.
>> > >Even slow acceration has a bit of lag. My car is a L series not a
>turbo.
>> > >The colder the weather the worse this problem is, any one got5 a
>possible
>> > >solution to my woe?
>> > ><p>Pele.
>> > ><p>Richard Clough wrote:
>> > ><blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
>> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Luke
>> > >Clough has been have little joy in his 1600 since installing a VL
>> > >Commodore fuel pump to his EFI L series engine last week. His
>idea
>> > >was to overcome fuel starvation being experienced on very hot days
>after
>> > >sitting at the lights, by pumping more fuel to cool the
>rail.</font></font>
>> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Problem became even more pronounced
>this
>> > >week leading to embarrassments like pushing the car after it dies at
>the
>> > >lights!</font></font> <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I travelled to
>Melbourne
>> > >today tandem trailer in tow and I was under instruction by my financial
>> > >advisor (wife, Lynn) to hand over her Commodore to Luke, so he had
>reliable
>> > >transport for work until he, or I, had his fuel problem sorted
>out.</font></font>
>> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I have been nagging him to replace the
>> > >original fuel pressure regulator ever since he fitted the engine, as
>its
>> > >adjustment thread was worn out. Obviously motivated by the threat
>> > >of driving the Commodore, Luke finally did it today. The
>replacement
>> > >regulator cost $4</font></font> (off <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>a
>> > >6 cyl EFI Skyline). So far, his engine is purring and pulling
>strongly
>> > >at 5500 - something it didn't do before- hopefully problem
>solved.</font></font>
>> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I'm not saying anything.</font></font>
>> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Meanwhile his sister Amy's Mazda
>Capella
>> > >(piston engine) has been reluctant to start when cold. It
>pops
>> > >and spits back as if it has a manifold leak, or is running lean.
>> > >But as soon as it gets a tiny bit of heat in the engine it runs like a
>> > >watch. I have swapped carbies, fitted a new coil, leads and
>points,
>> > >checked for leaks in the manifold. No change.</font></font> <font
>face="Arial"><font size=-1>Any
>> > >Suggestions anyone?</font></font> <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I
>had
>> > >to smile as I was coming home from Melbourne tonight still towing the
>tandem,
>> > >with the Mazda leering at me in the rear view mirror. I was
>supposed
>> > >to be bringing the Datto home to fix, but a simple $4 part got it going
>> > >well. However, $64 didn't fix the Mazda - typical. I wish
>we
>> > >had another 1600 for Amy.</font></font>
>> > ><br>
>> >
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