Gday
I got this from a SU website:
You can also modify your car's throttle response characteristics slightly by
adjusting the viscosity of the oil in the dashpot damper. SU and ZS carbs are
set up so
that a thicker oil will resist the piston's attempt to rise in the dashpot for
just long enough that the engine's increased load (when the throttle is opened)
will pull more
fuel across the bridge; this enriches the mixture and temporarily bumps power up
to help the engine achieve higher speed more readily. For light damping, Marvel
Mystery Oil is excellent, engine oil can be used for heavier damping.
Pele.
Tom Richardson wrote:
> Rick,
>
> I think the different viscosity doesn't damage the carbs just changes the
> damping factor ie quick or slow response
>
> - Tom
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rick White
> Sent: Sunday, 25 February 2001 11:09 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Richard EFI L series engines and other fuel problems
>
> Hea there Richard you say engine oil??
> I got told to use sewing machine oil was wot I was told incorrect.
> If so wot grade engine oil should use.
> I havn't driven the SSS since refilling with sewing machine oil so I
> shouldn't of done any damage.
> Thanks in advance.
> Rick White.
>
> --- "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >Ah twin SU's. Then forget most of the advice you have got.
> >
> >First check the fuel level in the float bowls at the correct hight. Use a
> >SU tuning guide to do this, its easy.
> >
> >Next unscrew the big nut on top of each bell and pull out the damper
> >pistons. Check for oil in the dampers. I dont think you will find any,
> >this is why your engine will cut out when you blip the throttle. Put some
> >engine oil in the tubes so the damper can do its stuff.
> >
> >Next slacken off all linkages between the carbs and set both butterflies
> >individually to a low idle speed. You can check both butterflies are set
> the
> >same by using a piece of hose as a "stethoscope". Put one end in you ear
> >and the other end down each carb with the engine idling. They should both
> >make the same sucking sound, if they dont, turn the idle adjustment on each
> >carb until they sound identical at a low idle speed.
> >
> >Tighten all linkages, making sure that both butterflies are being opened at
> >exactly the same time.
> >Your engine should pull smoothly and hard from now on.
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Sunday, 25 February 2001 1:44 AM
> >Subject: Re: EFI L series engines and other fuel problems
> >
> >
> >> Gday
> >>
> >> My name is not barbara, thats my mums name as the internet is payed for
> >> by her and thats the email address we got given. Thansk. Anyway my
> >> engine has 2 SU's 1 1/4
> >> inch i think. Yeah and also the car doesnt idle, you have to keep your
> >> feet on the accelerator, braker and clutch whilst the car is stopped at
> >> tthe lights.
> >>
> >> Pele.
> >>
> >> Rick White wrote:
> >>
> >> > Babara your problem if your L series engine still has the standard
> carby
> >on it with my guess would be the accellerator pump that is built in the
> >carby is stuffed.
> >> > I had the same problem a while ago.
> >> > The accelerator pump is a little leather diapram thing that gives the
> >carby just enough fuel to get going on lower idle.
> >> > I got the carby specialist to fit mine as I didn't have a clue about
> it.
> >
> >> > But I sat and watched and it was dead easy to fit so next time I will
> do
> >it myself.
> >> > it only cost me about $25.00 to get it sorted.
> >> > I hope you sort it out anyways.
> >> > till next time.
> >> > Rick White.
> >> > --- [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> > > wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >Gday
> >> > ><p>I think my 1600 has the same problem. In the last months i have
> been
> >> > >working on the other side of the city through stop start traffic, when
> >> > >i pull up at the lights for any wear between 1 and 15 minutes then i
> >get
> >> > >the green i accelertae and the car coughs like cristopher skase with
> an
> >> > >extradition warrant on his head. It backfires and really pisses me off
> >> > >and i dont no why it does this. But when i cruise with no stops the
> >1600
> >> > >will go all day, just the stop start which frigs it up. Is all i need
> a
> >> > >$4 fuel regulator.? Also when i drive and nail the accelerater the car
> >> > >lags quite alot before actaully doing what my right foot tells it to
> >do.
> >> > >Even slow acceration has a bit of lag. My car is a L series not a
> >turbo.
> >> > >The colder the weather the worse this problem is, any one got5 a
> >possible
> >> > >solution to my woe?
> >> > ><p>Pele.
> >> > ><p>Richard Clough wrote:
> >> > ><blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
> >> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Luke
> >> > >Clough has been have little joy in his 1600 since installing a
> VL
> >> > >Commodore fuel pump to his EFI L series engine last week. His
> >idea
> >> > >was to overcome fuel starvation being experienced on very hot days
> >after
> >> > >sitting at the lights, by pumping more fuel to cool the
> >rail.</font></font>
> >> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Problem became even more pronounced
> >this
> >> > >week leading to embarrassments like pushing the car after it dies at
> >the
> >> > >lights!</font></font> <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I travelled to
> >Melbourne
> >> > >today tandem trailer in tow and I was under instruction by my
> financial
> >> > >advisor (wife, Lynn) to hand over her Commodore to Luke, so he had
> >reliable
> >> > >transport for work until he, or I, had his fuel problem sorted
> >out.</font></font>
> >> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I have been nagging him to replace
> the
> >> > >original fuel pressure regulator ever since he fitted the engine, as
> >its
> >> > >adjustment thread was worn out. Obviously motivated by the
> threat
> >> > >of driving the Commodore, Luke finally did it today. The
> >replacement
> >> > >regulator cost $4</font></font> (off <font face="Arial"><font
> size=-1>a
> >> > >6 cyl EFI Skyline). So far, his engine is purring and pulling
> >strongly
> >> > >at 5500 - something it didn't do before- hopefully problem
> >solved.</font></font>
> >> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I'm not saying
> anything.</font></font>
> >> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Meanwhile his sister Amy's Mazda
> >Capella
> >> > >(piston engine) has been reluctant to start when cold. It
> >pops
> >> > >and spits back as if it has a manifold leak, or is running lean.
> >> > >But as soon as it gets a tiny bit of heat in the engine it runs like a
> >> > >watch. I have swapped carbies, fitted a new coil, leads and
> >points,
> >> > >checked for leaks in the manifold. No change.</font></font> <font
> >face="Arial"><font size=-1>Any
> >> > >Suggestions anyone?</font></font> <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I
> >had
> >> > >to smile as I was coming home from Melbourne tonight still towing the
> >tandem,
> >> > >with the Mazda leering at me in the rear view mirror. I was
> >supposed
> >> > >to be bringing the Datto home to fix, but a simple $4 part got it
> going
> >> > >well. However, $64 didn't fix the Mazda - typical. I wish
> >we
> >> > >had another 1600 for Amy.</font></font>
> >> > ><br>
> >> >
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> /
> >blockquote>
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> >
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