No drama,
I have also been told sewing machine oil, its viscosity is 5 or 10, but I
have used light (20/30) grade engine oil for many years with good
performance results. My theory is the more the piston damper is worn, a
slightly heavier oil should compensate for the wear.
Try the lighter oil first. If it feels a little lean on initial throttle
opening, try a slightly heavier grade of oil. All you are doing is slightly
altering the initial fuel air ratio upon opening the butterflies.
I think the heavier oil is also recommended if you have a lumpy cam
upsetting the standard intake manifold pressures.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick White" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, 25 February 2001 23:38 PM
Subject: Re: Richard EFI L series engines and other fuel problems
> Hea there Richard you say engine oil??
> I got told to use sewing machine oil was wot I was told incorrect.
> If so wot grade engine oil should use.
> I havn't driven the SSS since refilling with sewing machine oil so I
shouldn't of done any damage.
> Thanks in advance.
> Rick White.
>
> --- "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >Ah twin SU's. Then forget most of the advice you have got.
> >
> >First check the fuel level in the float bowls at the correct hight. Use
a
> >SU tuning guide to do this, its easy.
> >
> >Next unscrew the big nut on top of each bell and pull out the damper
> >pistons. Check for oil in the dampers. I dont think you will find any,
> >this is why your engine will cut out when you blip the throttle. Put some
> >engine oil in the tubes so the damper can do its stuff.
> >
> >Next slacken off all linkages between the carbs and set both butterflies
> >individually to a low idle speed. You can check both butterflies are set
the
> >same by using a piece of hose as a "stethoscope". Put one end in you ear
> >and the other end down each carb with the engine idling. They should
both
> >make the same sucking sound, if they dont, turn the idle adjustment on
each
> >carb until they sound identical at a low idle speed.
> >
> >Tighten all linkages, making sure that both butterflies are being opened
at
> >exactly the same time.
> >Your engine should pull smoothly and hard from now on.
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Sunday, 25 February 2001 1:44 AM
> >Subject: Re: EFI L series engines and other fuel problems
> >
> >
> >> Gday
> >>
> >> My name is not barbara, thats my mums name as the internet is payed for
> >> by her and thats the email address we got given. Thansk. Anyway my
> >> engine has 2 SU's 1 1/4
> >> inch i think. Yeah and also the car doesnt idle, you have to keep your
> >> feet on the accelerator, braker and clutch whilst the car is stopped at
> >> tthe lights.
> >>
> >> Pele.
> >>
> >> Rick White wrote:
> >>
> >> > Babara your problem if your L series engine still has the standard
carby
> >on it with my guess would be the accellerator pump that is built in the
> >carby is stuffed.
> >> > I had the same problem a while ago.
> >> > The accelerator pump is a little leather diapram thing that gives the
> >carby just enough fuel to get going on lower idle.
> >> > I got the carby specialist to fit mine as I didn't have a clue about
it.
> >
> >> > But I sat and watched and it was dead easy to fit so next time I will
do
> >it myself.
> >> > it only cost me about $25.00 to get it sorted.
> >> > I hope you sort it out anyways.
> >> > till next time.
> >> > Rick White.
> >> > --- [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> > > wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >Gday
> >> > ><p>I think my 1600 has the same problem. In the last months i have
been
> >> > >working on the other side of the city through stop start traffic,
when
> >> > >i pull up at the lights for any wear between 1 and 15 minutes then i
> >get
> >> > >the green i accelertae and the car coughs like cristopher skase with
an
> >> > >extradition warrant on his head. It backfires and really pisses me
off
> >> > >and i dont no why it does this. But when i cruise with no stops the
> >1600
> >> > >will go all day, just the stop start which frigs it up. Is all i
need a
> >> > >$4 fuel regulator.? Also when i drive and nail the accelerater the
car
> >> > >lags quite alot before actaully doing what my right foot tells it to
> >do.
> >> > >Even slow acceration has a bit of lag. My car is a L series not a
> >turbo.
> >> > >The colder the weather the worse this problem is, any one got5 a
> >possible
> >> > >solution to my woe?
> >> > ><p>Pele.
> >> > ><p>Richard Clough wrote:
> >> > ><blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
> >> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Luke
> >> > >Clough has been have little joy in his 1600 since installing a
VL
> >> > >Commodore fuel pump to his EFI L series engine last week. His
> >idea
> >> > >was to overcome fuel starvation being experienced on very hot days
> >after
> >> > >sitting at the lights, by pumping more fuel to cool the
> >rail.</font></font>
> >> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Problem became even more pronounced
> >this
> >> > >week leading to embarrassments like pushing the car after it dies at
> >the
> >> > >lights!</font></font> <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I travelled
to
> >Melbourne
> >> > >today tandem trailer in tow and I was under instruction by my
financial
> >> > >advisor (wife, Lynn) to hand over her Commodore to Luke, so he had
> >reliable
> >> > >transport for work until he, or I, had his fuel problem sorted
> >out.</font></font>
> >> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I have been nagging him to replace
the
> >> > >original fuel pressure regulator ever since he fitted the engine, as
> >its
> >> > >adjustment thread was worn out. Obviously motivated by the
threat
> >> > >of driving the Commodore, Luke finally did it today. The
> >replacement
> >> > >regulator cost $4</font></font> (off <font face="Arial"><font
size=-1>a
> >> > >6 cyl EFI Skyline). So far, his engine is purring and pulling
> >strongly
> >> > >at 5500 - something it didn't do before- hopefully problem
> >solved.</font></font>
> >> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I'm not saying
anything.</font></font>
> >> > ><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Meanwhile his sister Amy's Mazda
> >Capella
> >> > >(piston engine) has been reluctant to start when cold.
It
> >pops
> >> > >and spits back as if it has a manifold leak, or is running
lean.
> >> > >But as soon as it gets a tiny bit of heat in the engine it runs like
a
> >> > >watch. I have swapped carbies, fitted a new coil, leads and
> >points,
> >> > >checked for leaks in the manifold. No change.</font></font> <font
> >face="Arial"><font size=-1>Any
> >> > >Suggestions anyone?</font></font> <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I
> >had
> >> > >to smile as I was coming home from Melbourne tonight still towing
the
> >tandem,
> >> > >with the Mazda leering at me in the rear view mirror. I was
> >supposed
> >> > >to be bringing the Datto home to fix, but a simple $4 part got it
going
> >> > >well. However, $64 didn't fix the Mazda - typical. I
wish
> >we
> >> > >had another 1600 for Amy.</font></font>
> >> > ><br>
> >> >
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> >blockquote>
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> >
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