Hi Zac,
 
When I built up a L20 Turbo engine (many moons ago), I was advised to go for a welded base plate electronic (just like Dat Rally use on N/A cars) with a customised advance curve.
The logic behind this is for the same reason Dat Rally weld the base plate on N/A cars because the vac or boost can cause 'flutter' or an acceptable variance of the ignition timing.  All you need is a slight variance at max boost and a few revs on board and Pop, bang, ratatat, ratatat....blue smoke and she's all over.
When you think about it, under most throttle loads above, say 2500 rpm, you'll be on boost and your dizzy can be graphed to suit this.
Thats my $.02 worth, maybe give Datrally a call and ask them.
 
Cam
----- Original Message -----
To: Ozdat
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 5:57 PM
Subject: dilemma!

Guys I have a small dilemma in regard to my ignition setup on the turbo L20b.
 
I have just bought a Bosch elec dizzy to replace the stock dizzy, thinking this would be better as it has the stronger spark. I was also going to fit a boost retard canister to it so it would retard on boost.
 
BUT! last night I was offered an HKS electronic ignition retarder which consists of an in-cabin ignition retarder. It will work only on a points Hitachi dizzy by intercepting the condensor or something... That would be very very handy on a turbo car (especially when the water injection runs out :) ) .
 
Perhaps I could fit a boost retarder to the hitachi too but I still wouldn't get the electronic ignition spark.
 
Ideas?
Thanks!
zac

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